It is now well documented that chronic UVA exposure induces damage to human skin. Therefore, modern sunscreens should not only provide protection from both UVB and UVA radiation but also maintain this protection during the entire period of exposure to the sun. UVA filters, however, are rare and not sufficiently photostable. We investigated the effect of the introduction of a new UV filter, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), in oil in water sunscreen formulations on the photostability of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone [AVB]) after irradiation with an optically filtered Xenon arc source (UV irradiance adjusted at 1 mean effective dose [MED]/min). With spectrophotometrical methods to assess the sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA ratio and chromatographical methods to determine the amount of UV filters recovered after irradiation we showed that Tinosorb S prevented the photodegradation of AVB in a concentration-dependent way, leading to a sustained SPF and UVA ratio even after irradiation with doses of up to 30 MED. Since AVB was shown to destabilize ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) we tested the effect of Tinosorb S in sunscreens containing this UV filter combination. Here too Tinosorb S showed photoprotective properties toward both UV filters. Thus, Tinosorb S can be used successfully to improve the photostability and efficiency of sunscreens containing AVB and EHM.

In this randomized, double-blind human study, the short-term photoprotective effects of different antioxidants and their combinations were evaluated in vivo. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) and melatonin (N-acetyl-5-methoxytryptamine) were topically applied, alone or in combination, 30 min before ultraviolet-irradiation of the skin. The erythemal reaction was evaluated visually and non-invasively using different bioengineering methods (skin colour and skin blood flow). The results showed a modest protective effect of the vitamins when applied alone and a dose-dependent photoprotective effect of melatonin. Topical application of combinations of both vitamins, or of melatonin with vitamins, enhanced the photoprotective response. Better protection was obtained by using the combination of melatonin with both vitamins. The role of reactive oxygen species and oxygen-derived free radicals, as well as potential sunscreening properties of the employed antioxidants, are discussed in view of possible mechanisms to explain this elevated photoprotective effect.

To gain information about efficacy and safety of sunscreens, we compared the skin penetration of ultraviolet (UV) filters from two vehicles, i.e. an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion gel and petrolatum jelly both in vitro and in vivo, as well as the corresponding pharmacological effect, i.e. the sun protection factor (SPF) in vivo. The UV filters studied were benzophenone-3 (BPH), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM), butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl salicylate and homosalate. The human skin penetration of these five chemicals from the two vehicles was determined both in vitro using Franz cells and in vivo using a standardized tape-stripping method. The SPF of the two sunscreens was determined in vivo following the COLIPA guidelines. In vitro none of the filters permeated through the skin after 6 h of product application and very little could be found in the skin. BPH and EHM were the only UV filters found in the dermis (both after 30 min and 6 h). An effect of the vehicle could be noticed only for BPH after 30 min in the dermis and 6 h in both dermis and epidermis. In vivo, no differences in the amount of individual UV filters (in % of the applied dose) in the 15 first strips of the stratum corneum (SC) were found following 30 min of application of the formulations; however, the amount of UV filters that were retained in the SC was significantly higher (around 3 times) with the O/W emulsion gel than with the petrolatum jelly. This difference between the two vehicles was also of consequence for the SPF in vivo measured 30 min after application of the products (SPF ≅ 18 with the O/W emulsion gel compared to SPF ≅ 10 with the petrolatum jelly). By choosing the right vehicle or optimizing it, not only sunscreen products can be significantly improved in terms of pharmacological efficacy but the potential toxicological risk associated with the skin penetration of UV filters may be significantly reduced.

The actual advantage of barrier creams over bland emollients for skin protection is still hotly debated. In a randomized, double-blinded study, a newly-introduced barrier cream and its moisturizing vehicle were compared regarding their skin compatibility, efficacy and resulting acceptance. Thus, 2 panels of 25 hospital nurses with mild signs of skin irritation were asked to use 1 of the test products provided (verum or vehicle) over a period of 4 weeks. Effects of both types of preparations were studied weekly by clinical examination and the instrumental assessment of bioengineering parameters. Results showed no significant differences between barrier cream and vehicle. In both groups, clinical skin status improved and stratum corneum hydration increased significantly during the study period. Both preparations were tolerated and accepted well, thus showing both skin protection and skin care. These results contribute to the debate as to whether a strict distinction between "skin care" and "skin protection" products is justified. The vehicle alone is capable of positively influencing skin status. Emphasis must be laid on regular, frequent, and correct application of a product for it to be effective.

Two simple tests were conducted which allowed the quantification of parameters that characterize the stratum corneum (SC) dynamic functions in vivo under physiological conditions after moisturizer applications for 1 h and after irritation with different concentrations of sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS; 0.5-4%) applied under occlusion for 15 min or 24 h. Both tests, the sorption-desorption test (SDT) and the moisture accumulation test (MAT), were performed with a Nova Dermal Phase Meter 9003. The following parameters were quantified: prehydration state (SDT, MAT), hygroscopicity, water-holding capacity (SDT), water accumulation velocity and water accumulation (MAT). These procedures allowed the demonstration of the water-holding effect of urea contained in moisturizers. Differences between the long and the short application time of SLS were characterized by differences in SC dynamic functions while the hydration state was not changed. An effect on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was noted only after the long application time, although the MAT clearly showed dynamic parameters to be changed after 15 min of treatment. These tests were simple in practice and allowed the demonstration of functional modifications of the SC while other parameters remained unchanged. They gave insight into possible action mechanisms of urea and SLS in the SC.