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In this study, high-temperature liquid chromatographic (HTLC) and subcritical water chromatographic (SBWC) separations of sunscreens contained in skincare creams were achieved at temperatures ranging from 90 to 250°C. The columns employed in this work include a ZirChrom-DiamondBond-C18, a XTerra MS C18 and a XBridge C18 column. The quantity of methanol consumed by the greener HTLC sunscreen methods developed in this project is significantly reduced although the HTLC separation at this stage is not as efficient as that achieved by traditional HPLC. SBWC separation of sunscreens was also achieved on the XTerra MS C18 and the XBridge C18 columns using pure water at 230-250°C. Methanol was eliminated in the SBWC methods developed in this study.

Several high-temperature liquid chromatography (HTLC) and subcritical water chromatography (SBWC) methods have been successfully developed in this study for separation and analysis of preservatives contained in Olay skincare creams. Efficient separation and quantitative analysis of preservatives have been achieved on four commercially available ZirChrom and Waters XBridge columns at temperatures ranging from 100 to 200°C. The quantification results obtained by both HTLC and SBWC methods developed for preservatives analysis are accurate and reproducible. A large number of replicate HTLC and SBWC runs also indicate no significant system building-up or interference for skincare cream analysis. Compared with traditional HPLC separation carried out at ambient temperature, the HTLC methods can save up to 90% methanol required in the HPLC mobile phase. However, the SBWC methods developed in this project completely eliminated the use of toxic organic solvents required in the HPLC mobile phase, thus saving a significant amount of money and making the environment greener. Although both homemade and commercial systems can accomplish SBWC separations, the SBWC methods using the commercial system for preservative analysis are recommended for industrial applications because they can be directly applied in industrial plant settings.

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An approach is described to increase the deposition efficiency of silicone conditioning actives from a shampoo on colour-treated hair via liquid crystal (LC) colloidal structures, created with a high charge density cationic polymer, poly(diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride) and negatively charged surfactants. LCs are materials existing structurally between the solid crystalline and liquid phases, and several techniques, including polarized light microscopy, small angle X-Ray analysis, and differential scanning calorimetry, were used to confirm the presence of the LC structures in the shampoo formula. Silicone deposition from the LC-containing shampoo and a control shampoo was measured on a range of hair substrates, and data from inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectroscopy analysis and ToF-SIMS imaging illustrate the enhancement in silicone deposition for the LC shampoo on all hair types tested, with the most pronounced enhancement occurring on hair that had undergone oxidative treatments, such as colouring. A model is proposed in which the LC structure deposits from the shampoo onto the hair to: (i) provide 'slip planes' along the hair surface for wet conditioning purposes and (ii) form a hydrophobic layer which changes the surface energy of the fibres. This increase in hydrophobicity of the hair surface thereby increases the deposition efficiency of silicone conditioning ingredients. Zeta potential measurements, dynamic absorbency testing analysis and ToF-SIMS imaging were used to better understand the mechanisms of action. This approach to increasing silicone deposition is an improvement relative to conventional conditioning shampoos, especially for colour-treated hair.