The concept of power is widespread and it can be easily observed in supplier-retailer studies because in asymmetric exchange relationships, retailers are the powerful side and they are able to set the rules of the game (Hingley et al., 2015). A number of researchers in supply chains (Nyaga et al., 2013, Rindt and Mouzas, 2015) have explored power asymmetry. In asymmetric supplier-buyer relationships, the powerful partner applies its power in two main areas: the strategic and operational areas of the weaker party. This means that the weaker party accepts the control of the powerful party in its business activities in both areas (Johnsen and Ford, 2008). This paper investigates how small suppliers deal with buyer power within the sustainable fashion supply chain. The term sustainable fashion supply chain in this paper reflects Seuring and Muller's (2008, p. 1700) definition who defined the sustainable supply chain 'as the management of material, information and capital flows as well as cooperation among companies along the supply chain while taking goals from all three dimensions of sustainable development.' The paper takes an interaction approach (IMP Group,1982) to develop a better understanding of the application of power by retailers and contributes to Munksgaard, Johnsen and Patterson (2015) call for further research into buyer-supplier relationships. This need for further research is particularly warranted in the area of fashion supply chain relationships in relation to increasing exertion of power by retailers (Oxborrow and Brindley, 2014). The fashion supply chain is characterised by powerful retail buyers and small fashion suppliers. Major retail buyers increasingly appear to gain relative power which adds extra pressure on small supplier firms to sustain their relationships (Hines and McGowan, 2005).

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This research investigates the power use in self and collective interests of retailers and small apparel suppliers' relationships. Our findings highlighted that power use of fast fashion retailers in self-interest and collective interest related goals are evident mainly in the areas of capability development, production processes and innovation in asymmetric relationships with Turkish apparel suppliers.

This research identifies the types of relationship asymmetry within sustainable fashion supply chains and the role of relationship asymmetry in sustainable product development in fashion supply chains in the UK. This research that is based on supply chain experiences of experts highlighted that how relational asymmetries hinder sustainable product development in fashion supply chains, but also how sustainable behaviours, values and policies help to overcome the influence of relational asymmetry in sustainable product development process.