Urea is an endogenous metabolite, known to enhance stratum corneum hydration. Yet, topical urea anecdotally also improves permeability barrier function, and it appears to exhibit antimicrobial activity. Hence, we hypothesized that urea is not merely a passive metabolite, but a small-molecule regulator of epidermal structure and function. In 21 human volunteers, topical urea improved barrier function in parallel with enhanced antimicrobial peptide (LL-37 and β-defensin-2) expression. Urea both stimulates expression of, and is transported into keratinocytes by two urea transporters, UT-A1 and UT-A2, and by aquaporin 3, 7 and 9. Inhibitors of these urea transporters block the downstream biological effects of urea, which include increased mRNA and protein levels for: (i) transglutaminase-1, involucrin, loricrin and filaggrin; (ii) epidermal lipid synthetic enzymes, and (iii) cathelicidin/LL-37 and β-defensin-2. Finally, we explored the potential clinical utility of urea, showing that topical urea applications normalized both barrier function and antimicrobial peptide expression in a murine model of atopic dermatitis (AD). Together, these results show that urea is a small-molecule regulator of epidermal permeability barrier function and antimicrobial peptide expression after transporter uptake, followed by gene regulatory activity in normal epidermis, with potential therapeutic applications in diseased skin.

In most sunscreens, the presence of two UV filters usually leads to synergistic effects regarding both the final performance and photostabilization of the active principles. However, this may also result in an accelerated decomposition if a photoreaction occurs between the single components. Thus, the understanding of photophysics and photochemistry of UV filter combinations is important to improve sunscreen photostability. In this context, photoreactivity of a commonly used UVA filter, namely tert-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (BM-DBM, also known as avobenzone, Parsol 1789, etc.), has been studied in the presence of six commercial solar filters: octyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, octyl triazone and dioctyl butamido triazone. To achieve this goal, a mechanism-based strategy has been designed in order to investigate the photostability of sunscreens in a more systematic way, taking into account different processes: tautomerization of BM-DBM, formation of triplet excited state of BM-DBM in its diketo form and its quenching in the presence of UV filters, reactivity of UV filters under triplet photosensitization, quenching of singlet oxygen by UV filters and degradation of the latter under singlet oxygenation conditions.

Novel sunscreens are required providing active protection in the UVA and UVB regions. On the other hand, there is an increasing concern about the photosafety of UV filters, as some of them are not sufficiently photostable. Avobenzone is one of the most frequently employed sunscreen ingredients, but it has been reported to partially decompose after irradiation. In the present work, photophysical and photochemical studies on a methylated avobenzone-derivative have shown that the diketo form is responsible for photodegradation. A transient absorption was observed at 380 nm after laser flash photolysis excitation at 308 nm. It was assigned to the triplet excited state of the diketo form, as inferred from quenching by oxygen and b-carotene. This transient also interacted with key building blocks of biomolecules by triplet-triplet energy transfer (in the case of thymidine) or electron transfer processes (for 2¢-deoxyguanosine, tryptophan and tyrosine). Irradiation of the avobenzone derivative in the presence of a triazine UV-B filter (E-35852) diminished the undesirable effects of the compound by an efficient quenching of the triplet excited state. Thus, sunscreen formulations including triplet quenchers could provide effective protection from the potential phototoxic and photoallergic effects derived from poor photostability of avobenzone.

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Humans with darkly-pigmented skin display superior permeability barrier function in comparison to humans with lightly-pigmented skin. The reduced pH of the stratum corneum (SC) of darkly-pigmented skin could account for enhanced function, because acidifying lightly-pigmented human SC resets barrier function to darkly-pigmented levels. In SKH1 (non-pigmented) vs. SKH2/J (pigmented) hairless mice, we evaluated how a pigment-dependent reduction in pH could influence epidermal barrier function. Permeability barrier homeostasis is enhanced in SKH2/J vs. SKH1 mice, correlating with a reduced pH in the lower SC that co-localizes with the extrusion of melanin granules. Darkly-pigmented human epidermis also shows substantial melanin extrusion in the outer epidermis. Both acute barrier disruption and topical basic pH challenges accelerate re-acidification of SKH2/J (but not SKH1) SC, while inducing melanin extrusion. SKH2/J mice also display enhanced expression of the SC acidifying enzyme, secretory phospholipase A2f (sPLA2f). Enhanced barrier function of SKH2/J mice could be attributed to enhanced activity of two acidic pH-dependent, ceramide-generating enzymes, β-glucocerebrosidase and acidic sphingomyelinase, leading to accelerated maturation of SC lamellar bilayers. Finally, organotypic cultures of darkly-pigmented-bearing human keratinocytes display enhanced barrier function in comparison to lightly-pigmented cultures. Together, these results suggest that the superior barrier function of pigmented epidermis can be largely attributed to the pH-lowering impact of melanin persistence/extrusion and enhanced sPLA2f expression.