PurposeThe aim of the research is the development of 3D virtual models of lower female bodies from scanned data of different body types for computer‐aided 3D product development of loose‐fitting garments.Design/methodology/approachIn order to develop reproducible construction of fashionable/functional outerwear (e.g. ladies’ trousers) on the basis of generated scalable 3D virtual female models, 3D‐CAD methods have to be developed. In doing so, the variable parameters are predefined and the block pattern of a trouser design can be modified by changing the parameters for the variety of trouser models. Two‐dimensional (2D) pattern pieces are then automatically generated and modified if necessary. According to morphological changes, the whole process proceeds automatically up to 2D patterns and thus corresponds to a grading in 3D.FindingsThe generated 3D virtual model and trouser design corresponding to a basic design or block pattern can be offered to the garment industry. The task of the designer or stylist is only to define the intended pattern design on the created trouser shell. Therefore, the approach is also very feasible for pattern makers who are not skilled in computer technology. The goal of this research is to provide an indispensable basis for an effective new technology for the construction of fit‐relevant, loose‐fitting garments, and in doing so, further accelerate the textile chain.Originality/valueThis paper provides methods of creating 3D garment design as well as grading in 3D, based on scalable virtual models of female lower bodies, which are worked out using a new German size designation system. Since the data processed for the generation of virtual models derives from direct scan data from women (taking into account different body types), the targeted German population is reflected.

The requirements for the clothing industry have altered over the years. The production has to be changed from the standard mass production to the production of fast changing trendy range of products. Causations for this are market saturation, import pressure and constantly changing consumer preferences. In addition to a variety of fashionable materials and styles, high functionality and perfect fit of clothing are requisite. Due to the enormous competitive pressure it is imperative to reduce time and costs of product development in the clothing industry. The aim of the research project is to develop 3D virtual models of lower bodies from the scanned data of different body types as a prerequisite for computer-aided 3D product development of loose-fitting garments. As an example, lady trousers are constructed. In favour of the reproducible construction of fashionable/functional outerwear on the basis of automatically generated models, 3D construction algorithms based on commercially available software solutions have to be compiled and development tools have to be created. In doing so geometrical as well as functional variable parameters are predefined. The trouser can be modified by changing predefined parameters and can then be used as a basis for constructing the variety of trousers. Two-dimensional (2D) pattern pieces are automatically generated and modified if necessary. According to morphological changes the whole process proceeds automatically up to 2D patterns and thus corresponds to a grading in 3D.