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Appropriate evaluation of sunscreens is required to provide better knowledge of their safety and efficacy. One of the most important elements of this evaluation is the assessment of percutaneous absorption. In vitro methods are largely used for such assessments, and the accuracy of the measurements generated with these methods depends on the use of a proper methodology. This study was designed to evaluate an in vitro protocol for investigating the percutaneous absorption of two sunscreens under standardized experimental conditions. Octyl methoxycinnamate and benzophenone 4 were each incorporated in a typical oil-in-water emulsion and tested separately. Salicylic acid was tested as a reference compound. In vitro percutaneous absorption was evaluated using two species, the pig and human, and two models, full-thickness and split-thickness skin. The reproducibility of study results was evaluated by comparing the data generated by two industrial laboratories, L’Oréal and Hoffmann-La Roche. The correlation of quantitative data between pig skin and human skin was very good, and the split-thickness skin model seemed to be more appropriate for measuring the absorption of sunscreens. Results obtained for salicylic acid demonstrated the relevance of the protocol in terms of prediction of in vivo percutaneous absorption. Finally, the comparison of pig skin data between the two laboratories demonstrated a good correlation and underlined the need for a standardized in vitro procedure.

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The potential human health risk of UV filters depends on their toxicity and the human systemic exposure which is a function of the extent of percutaneous absorption of the topically applied substance into the human organism. Using a ‘mass balance’ approach, a study was designed to investigate the systemically absorbed dose of [¹⁴C]-Mexoryl SX^® in humans after topical application of a typical sunscreen emulsion. In addition, to assess the correlation with in vitro experiments, the percutaneous absorption of this UVA filter through isolated human skin was measured under identical exposure conditions. When applied in vivo for a period of 4 h, 89–94% of the applied radioactivity was recovered from the wash-off samples. In urine samples, the radioactivity slightly exceeded background levels and corresponded maximally to 0.014% of the topically applied dose. No radioactivity was measured in blood or faeces sampled up to 120 h after application. In vitro, 24 h after a 4-hour application, [¹⁴C]-Mexoryl SX remained primarily on the skin surface. The mean in vitro absorption over 24 h, adding up the amounts found in the dermis and receptor fluid, was 0.16% of the applied dose. It is concluded from the in vivo pharmacokinetic results that the systemically absorbed dose of [¹⁴C]-Mexoryl SX is less than 0.1%. The order of magnitude of this value correlates well with the corresponding in vitro data which overestimate the in vivo results as previously observed with other hydrophilic compounds. This study demonstrates that, under realistic exposure conditions, the human systemic exposure to this UVA filter is negligible and poses no risk to human health.