The demand for halal cosmetic products among the 2.4 billion Muslim consumers worldwide is increasing. However, the demand for halal cosmetics remains unmet because cosmetics production is dominated by non-halal cosmetic manufacturers, whose production methods may not conform with the requirements of halal science. The development of halal cosmetics and the assessment of their product performance is still in its infancy. The integration of halal science in the manufacture of most cosmetic products remains inadequate. Moreover, there is a global dearth of guiding documents on the development and assessment techniques in the production of comprehensively halal cosmetics. This paper aims to abridge existing literature and knowledge of halal and cosmetic science in order to provide essential technical guidance in the manufacture of halal cosmetics. In addition, the adoption of these methods addresses the unique ethical issues associated with conformance of cosmetics’ product performance to religious practices and halal science. It highlights the applicability of established methods in skin science in the assessment of halal cosmetics.

The ban on the use of animals in testing cosmetic products has led to the development of animal-free in vitro methods. Strat-M® is an artificial membrane engineered to mimic human skin and is recommended as a replacement for skin. However, its usefulness in the assessment of the permeation of cosmetics in in-use conditions remains unverified. No data have been published on its comparative performance with the membrane of choice, porcine skin. The comparative permeability characteristics of Strat-M® and porcine skin were investigated using Franz diffusion cells. Caffeine (CF) and rhododendrol (RD) in complex vehicles with varying concentrations of polyols were applied as finite and infinite doses. Good rank orders of permeation from finite dose experiments were observed for RD. High correlations were observed in RD permeation between Strat-M® and porcine skin under finite and infinite dose conditions, whereas only finite dose conditions for CF were associated with good correlations. Permeation from formulations with high polyol content and residual formulations was enhanced due to the disruption of the integrity of the Strat-M® barrier. The usefulness of Strat-M® in the assessment of dermal permeation may be limited to finite dose conditions and not applicable to infinite dose conditions or formulations applied in layers.

The feasibility of topical application onto the (lower) eyelid skin to deliver hydrophilic and lipophilic compounds into the conjunctiva and ocular tissues was evaluated by comparing with conventional eye drop application. Skin permeation and the concentration of several model compounds, and skin impedance were determined utilizing eyelid skin from hairless rats, as well as abdominal skin in the same animals for comparison. In vitro static diffusion cells were used to assess the skin permeation in order to provide key insights into the relationship between the skin sites and drugs. The obtained results revealed that drug permeation through the eyelid skin was much higher than that through abdominal skin regardless of the drug lipophilicity. Specifically, diclofenac sodium salt and tranilast exhibited approximately 6-fold and 11-fold higher permeability coefficients, respectively, through eyelid skin compared with abdominal skin. Histomorphological evaluation and in vivo distribution of model fluorescent dyes were also examined in the conjunctiva and skin after eyelid administration by conventional microscope and confocal laser scanning microscope analyses. The result revealed that eyelid skin has a thinner stratum corneum, thereby showing lower impedance, which could be the reason for the higher drug permeation through eyelid skin. Comparative evaluation of lipophilic and hydrophilic model compounds administered via the eyelid skin over 8h revealed stronger fluorescence intensity in the skin and surrounding tissues compared with eye drop administration. These results suggested that the (lower) eyelid skin is valuable as a prospective site for ophthalmic medicines.