Bonding technology namely as “sew free” technology is usually applied for joining the pieces of sportswear and leisure clothing. Influence of the thermal ageing duration on the peeling strength of woven fabric and knitted materials bonded at 150°C temperature for 10 s, 20 s, 30 s, and 40 s durations with two polyurethane films of 0.175 mm and 0.127 mm thicknesses has been investigated in this research. Based on the research results it was shown that the peeling strength of the textile bonds is dependent on material type and bonding duration, but it is not highly affected by the ageing at 45°C temperature for 150 min, 300 min, and 450 min. During concluding it may be stated that ageing at 45°C temperatures is not main factor influencing the bond quality during its exploitation in high temperature environment.

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Purpose The purpose of this paper is to determine the influence of the loading velocity on textile bonds and sewn seam strength. Design/methodology/approach Commercially produced polyamide and polyester knitted fabric, and polyester woven fabrics as well as three commercially available monolayer urethane thermoplastic films were used in this research. Two layers of each fabric were laminated at 160°C temperature at 5.6 kPa for 20 seconds. Sewn specimens were joined applying (301) and (514) stiches for woven and knitted fabrics, respectively. The bond and sewn seam strength was investigated at different delamination loading velocities (50, 100, 150, 200, 300 mm/min). These values of velocities lies in the velocity interval which covers the different standard requirements for testing of the quality of textiles and their seams or were applied in the research works of previous scientists. As the influence of loading velocity was more significant for bond strength, the bond strength results were analyzed together with the analysis of bond rupture character. Findings The determined influence of the loading velocity on textile bonds strength has proved that the loading velocity in bond strength test is of high importance for the prediction of the behavior of clothing being in exploitation under different conditions. The opposite tendency was determined for the sewn seams, the strength of which was independent on loading velocity. Originality/value The influence of the loading velocity on textile bond and sewn seam strength was not analyzed in the previous research works published by other scientists. It was known that the standard velocity is 50 mm/min for seams and 100 mm/min for textiles strength testing. It was shown there that the real exploitation of a garment as a whole complicated heterogenic dynamic system could be simulated with changing loading velocities during their seam strength testing. It was also determined that the loading velocity makes different influence on bonded and sewn seams of textiles.

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the influence of assembly type on the hand property of the polyester-knitted materials containing different amounts of elastane fibre. Design/methodology/approach The hand property of control textile materials specimens as well as assembled ones applying both adhesive bonding and sewing was evaluated analysing the typical pulling curves as well as the individual hand parameters, which were determined using the device KTU-Griff-Tester. The complex hand criterion Q was calculated for the complete assessment of both textiles and their assemblies’ hand by one numeral value. Findings It was shown that the fabric structure and assembly type have a significant influence on the knitted materials hand property. The complex hand criterion Q varied from 0.068 to 0.186, depending on the material structure, and it was decreased up to 42.6 per cent due to textile assemblies. Practical implications The determined research results are significant not only for clothing science but also leads to the improvement in clothing quality in fashion industry suggesting more ergonomic and original constructional decisions for clothes’ design, selection of most suitable assembly type and its place in overall garment area, which is very important for the development process of the slim fitted sportswear featuring with a very complicated construction, usually worn under intensive body movements causing rubbing effect to the skin. Originality/value Knitted fabrics should not only be elastic but also have perfect hand, thus making them to feel comfortable. But hand property of assembled textiles had not been investigated previously. Novelty and originality of this research was the objective and simple evaluation of the hand property for both knitted materials and their assemblies taking into account the overall skin sensorial comfort of a garment.

Assuring the comfort of the human body is one of the most important functions of sportswear and leisure wear. Knitted fabrics should have high air permeability for easily transmit of the perspiration from the skin to the atmosphere as well as to feature with good hand thus making the wearer to feel comfortable. In this research, both hand and air permeability of eight commercially available polyester knitted fabrics and their adhesive bonds were investigated. There was shown that textile structure and adhesive bonds make the significant influence on textile hand and permeability to air making them being worse.