This paper shows coastal evolution along the Andalusia Region (Spain) and the impacts on it of coastal structures. The study area was divided into 47 units to calculate the erosion/accretion/stability (or evolution) rates by using the DSAS extension of ArcGIS software. Evolution rates were divided into different classes from “Very high accretion” to “Very high erosion”. As a result, 9 units recorded accretion, 19 stability and 19 erosion. Further, 17 units presented a positive balance and 28 units a negative one, showing a negative net balance of 29,738.4 m2/year corresponding to the loss of 1784.30 km2 of beach surface in the 1956–2016 period. The distribution of evolution areas along the studied coast was carried out by means of the “R” project for statistical computing. The analysis evidenced the impact of rigid structures: accretion was essentially observed up-drift of ports and groins and in correspondence of protection structures, especially of breakwaters. Erosion classes were observed down-drift of ports and groins and in correspondence of revetments/seawalls, and at largest river deltas, and “stability” was observed at pocket beaches and coastal areas locally stabilized by protection structures. Last, results were used to determine the distribution of swash- and drift-aligned coastal sectors and main direction of sedimentary transport.
This paper investigates wave climate and storm characteristics along the Mediterranean coast of Andalusia, for the period 1979-2014, by means of the analysis of wave data on four prediction points obtained from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF). Normally, to characterize storms, researchers use the so-called "power index". In this paper, a different approach was adopted based on the assessment of the wave energy flux of each storm, using a robust definition of sea storm. During the investigated period, a total of 2961 storm events were recorded. They were classified by means of their associated energy flux into five classes, from low-(Class I) to high-energetic (Class V). Each point showed a different behavior in terms of energy, number, and duration of storms. Nine stormy years, i.e., years with a high cumulative energy, were recorded in Orford and Carter [17] used the role of storm surge to develop a new storm index. Kriebel et al. [18] proposed a nor'easter risk index by combining the effects of storm surge, wave, and duration and Zhang et al. [19] developed a storm erosion potential index by combining the effect of storm tide, wave energy, and duration. This paper analyzes a 35-year wave climate dataset obtained from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) for four available prediction points equally spaced along the Mediterranean coast of Andalusia (south of Spain). This allowed the definition and assessment of storm characteristics and their spatial and temporal distribution along the investigated area. To characterize the storms, a new approach was adopted, assessing the real wave energy flux of each storm, using a robust definition of the storm itself. During the investigated period, a total of 2961 storm events were recorded. These were classified according to five classes of storms, from low (Class I) to high-energetic (Class V). Results obtained are useful to understand potential impacts of both single and grouped storms, and hence put in place the appropriate prevention and mitigation strategies.
This paper deals with the characterization and evolution of dune systems along the Mediterranean coast of Andalusia, in the South of Spain, a first step to assess their relevant value in coastal flood protection and in the determination of sound management strategies to protect such valuable ecological systems. Different dune types were mapped as well as dune toe position and fragmentation, which favors dune sensitivity to storms’ impacts, and human occupation and evolution from 1977 to 2001 and from 2001 to 2016. Within a GIS (Geographic Information System) project, 53 dune systems were mapped that summed a total length of ca. 106 km in 1977, differentiating three dune environments: (i) Embryo and mobile dunes (Type I), (ii) grass-fixed dunes (Type II) and (iii) stabilized dunes (Type III). A general decrease in dunes’ surfaces was recorded in the 1977–2001 period (−7.5 × 106 m2), especially in Málaga and Almería provinces, and linked to dunes’ fragmentation and the increase of anthropic occupation (+2.3 × 106 m2). During the 2001–2016 period, smaller changes in the level of fragmentation and in dunes’ surfaces were observed. An increase of dunes’ surfaces was only observed on stable or accreting beaches, both in natural and anthropic areas (usually updrift of ports).
Abstract. In recent decades in the Mediterranean Sea, high anthropic pressure from increasing economic and touristic development has affected several coastal areas. Today the erosion phenomena threaten human activities and existing structures, and interdisciplinary studies are needed to better understand actual coastal dynamics. Beach evolution analysis can be conducted using GIS methodologies, such as the well-known Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS), in which error assessment based on shoreline positioning plays a significant role. In this study, a new approach is proposed to estimate the positioning errors due to tide and wave run-up influence. To improve the assessment of the wave run-up uncertainty, a spectral numerical model was used to propagate waves from deep to intermediate water and a Boussinesqtype model for intermediate water up to the swash zone. Tide effects on the uncertainty of shoreline position were evaluated using data collected by a nearby tide gauge. The proposed methodology was applied to an unprotected, dissipative Sicilian beach far from harbors and subjected to intense human activities over the last 20 years. The results show wave run-up and tide errors ranging from 0.12 to 4.5 m and from 1.20 to 1.39 m, respectively.
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