This study examined the effects of two or four weekly campus board training sessions among highly accomplished lead climbers. Sixteen advanced-to-elite climbers were randomly allocated to two (TG2), or four weekly campus board training sessions (TG4), or a control group (CG). All groups continued their normal climbing routines. Pre- and post-intervention measures included bouldering performance, maximal isometric pull-up strength using a shallow rung and a large hold (jug), and maximal reach and moves to failure. Rate of force development (RFD; absolute and 100ms) was calculated in the rung condition. TG4 improved maximal force in the jug condition (effect size (ES) = 0.40, p = 0.043), and absolute RFD more than CG (ES = 2.92, p = 0.025), whereas TG2 improved bouldering performance (ES = 2.59, p = 0.016) and maximal moves to failure on the campus board more than CG (ES = 1.65, p = 0.008). No differences between the training groups were found (p = 0.107–1.000). When merging the training groups, the training improved strength in the rung condition (ES = 0.87, p = 0.002), bouldering performance (ES = 2.37, p = 0.006), maximal reach (ES = 1.66, p = 0.006) and moves to failure (ES = 1.43, p = 0.040) more than CG. In conclusion, a five-week campus board training-block is sufficient for improving climbing-specific attributes among advanced-to-elite climbers. Sessions should be divided over four days to improve RFD or divided over two days to improve bouldering performance, compared to regular climbing training.

This study sought to study the effect of high intensity aerobic interval endurance training on peak stroke volume and maximal strength training on mechanical efficiency in coronary artery disease (CAD) patients. 8 CAD patients (age 61.4 ± 3.7 years) trained 30 interval training sessions with 4 × 4 min intervals at 85-95% of peak heart rate while 10 CAD patients (age 66.5 ± 5.5 years) trained 24 sessions of maximal horizontal leg press. In the interval training group peak stroke volume increased significantly by 23% from 94.1 ± 23.0 mL · beat (-1) to 115.8 ± 22.4 mL · beat (-1) (p<0.05). Peak oxygen uptake increased significantly by 17% from 27.2 ± 4.5 mL · kg (-1) · min (-1) to 31.8 ± 5.0 mL · kg (-1) min (-1) (p<0.05) in the same group. In contrast, there was no such exercise training-induced change in peak stroke volume or peak oxygen uptake in the maximal strength training group, despite a 35% improvement in sub maximal walking performance.

Resistance-training of the lower limbs can be performed using exercises moving one (single-joint exercises) or several joints (multi-joint exercises). This study compared the effects of training one multi-joint exercise (leg press) or two single-joint exercises (leg extension and kickback) on dynamic and isometric strength and the transferability of dynamic strength between exercises. Fifty-three physically active women were randomized to a multi-joint (MJ) training group (age = 21.95±0.82 years, mass = 64.85±5.76 kg, height = 167.35±2.47 cm; n = 20), single-joint (SJ) training group (age = 22.56±1.66 years, mass = 64.85±5.76 kg, height = 165.94±2.84 cm; n = 18), or a control (CON) group (age = 21.27±0.68 years, mass = 68.43±4.86 kg, height = 168.63±2.84 cm; n = 15). The training groups participated in an 8week supervised single-or multi-joint lower limb training consisting of 18 sessions. Pre-and post-training, six repetitions maximum (RM)and maximal voluntary isometric contraction in the three exercises were assessed, along with electromyography of the superficial quadriceps muscles. Improvements in all dynamic exercises were greatest after training the specific exercises (ES = 1.26-2.14, P<0.001-0.025) and all were greater in the training groups than in the CON group (ES = 1.43-3.31, P<0.001-0.021). The SJ group improved 6RM in leg extension and kickback more than leg press (ES = 1.51 and 2.04, respectively, P<0.001), whereas the MJ group improved leg press 6RM more than kickback (ES = 1.10, P = 0.002). However, leg press and leg extension strength improved similarly in the MJ group (ES = 0.54, P = 0.072). All strength and electromyographic measures remained unchanged in the CON group (ES = 0.00-0.44, P = 0.412-0.966). Improved dynamic strength in leg press, kickback and leg extension is best attained by training the specific exercises, but both training modalities can improve strength across all exercises.

Saeterbakken, AH, Stien, N, Pedersen, H, and Andersen, V. Core muscle activation in three lower extremity exercises with different stability requirements. J Strength Cond Res 36(2): 304-309, 2022-The aim of the study was to compare core muscle surface electromyography (sEMG) during 3-repetition maximum (3RM) and the sEMG amplitude in the turnover from the descending to ascending phase in leg press, free-weight squats, and squats using the Smith machine. Nineteen women with 4.5 (62.0) years of resistance training were recruited. After one familiarization session, the subjects performed 3RM in randomized order measuring electromyographic activity in the rectus abdominis, external oblique, and erector spinae. The exercises with the lowest stability requirements (leg press) demonstrated 17-59% and 17-42% lower core muscle sEMG amplitude than free weights and the Smith machine, respectively. No statistically significant differences were observed between the Smith machine and free weights. No statistically significant differences in turnover sEMG amplitude in the rectus abdominis between the exercises was observed, but lower sEMG amplitude was observed in external oblique and erector spinae in leg press compared with the other exercises. The 3RM loads in leg press were 54 and 47% greater than squats using the Smith machine and free weights, with 5% greater loads with the Smith machine than with free weights. In conclusion, lower mean and turnover core muscle sEMG amplitude were observed with the leg press but greater 3RM loads compared with squats with the Smith machine and free weights. The authors recommend that resistance-trained individuals use squats to include the core muscles in the kinetic chain, but there is no evidence that greater stability requirements (free weights instead of the Smith machine) will result in greater core muscle sEMG amplitude.

Background: Musculoskeletal disorders are highly prevalent among office workers, with strong evidence suggesting that workplace-based resistance training programs can prevent several upper extremity musculoskeletal disorders. The aim of the present study was to examine the dose-response relationship between resistance training frequency and pain relief among office workers with neck-and shoulder pain. Methods: Thirty participants with mild to moderate neck-and shoulder pain attended a 16-week intervention starting with an eight-week control period followed by an eight-week training period. After the control period, the participants were randomized into either a 10 min (TG10) or 2 × 10 min (TG2) workplace-based, high-intensity neckand shoulder specific resistance training program that was executed 5 days per week and consisting of four exercises. The participants were tested pre and post each period for mean and worst pain using the 0-100 mm visual analog scale (VAS), 0-100 mm health-related quality of life and isometric strength of the neck-and shoulder region. The analysis of variance (ANOVA) and Friedman with Bonferroni post hoc corrections were used to assess differences in between and within groups for the three testing times pre, mid and post intervention. Results: No differences were observed between the groups in any of the variables in the control period (p = 0.27-0.97) or training period (p = 0.37-0.68). When merging the two groups, the mean and worst pain was reduced by 25 and 43% (p = 0.05 and < 0.01, ES = 0.41 and 0.55) in the training period in addition to 10.6% increase in healthrelated quality of life (p = 0.01, ES = 0.52). No difference in strength was observed (p = 0.29-0.85). Conclusion: Daily bouts of specific high-intensity resistance training of the shoulder and neck region at the workplace reduced neck-and shoulder pain and improved quality of life of office workers. However, 10 min bouts were equally effective as 2 × 10 min bouts per day. The authors recommend office workers to perform daily neckand shoulder resistance training to possibly prevent and/or decrease pain in the neck-and shoulder area. Trial registration: ISRCTN69968888, retrospectively registered (24/09/2019).