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Observe, describe, don't freeze At the beginning of the long 19th century, heritage belonged essentially to the cultural sphere. It was no diff erent for food heritage. Intellectuals, historians and folklorists made large use of it with the aim of "awakening" the national consciousness-as the phrase went. They used it as part of the nation-state discourse (Berger and Conrad 2014). Such rhetoric powerfully conveyed a strong feeling of inclusion within the nation, well described as wir Gef ü hl (the "us" feeling) by Norbert Elias. But it also implied othering and the exclusion of "aliens". Food and taste, more than other elements of the imagined community of the nation (Anderson 1983), convey the feeling of "home", embody sensorial memories imbued with nostalgia and nurture the feeling of belonging together. Thanks to its nature, rooted in culture as much as in the zoe-mere everyday life-food has proved extremely successful in linking the idea of the Kulturnation to its daily domestic experience, thus indirectly supporting the interpretation of the nation as a family, sometimes even in the ethnic sense. As Paolo Capuzzo suggests here (Chapter 4), since the beginning of industrialization-which obviously took place at diff erent times in diff erent countries-and even more so in the age of globalization, food heritage has rapidly shifted towards commodity: it has turned into commodity heritage-artefacts modifi ed in order to enter the global market (Grasseni 2005). More: they have become "a political artefact, on its way to becoming a tourist artefact" (Mintz 2003 , 26). Both UNESCO's nominations to world intangible heritage and the EU's quality place-based labelling, created in their diff erent ways as means of protecting culinary diversity and authenticity, have generated risks, as Laura Di Fiore (Chapter 2) and Fabio Parasecoli (Chapter 3) point out in this book. Thus, cuisine heritage has turned into a truly contested issue which has even fuelled food wars, especially where ethnic, national or political confl icts have existed, as discussed in the introduction. Gisela Welz refl ects on the case of two products. Lokoumi Geroskipou, linked with the fi rm Aphrodite's Delight based in the Greek part of

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