Moisturizers influence the skin barrier function of normal skin, as measured by TEWL and susceptibility to SLS. Moreover, the effect on skin barrier function is determined by the composition of the moisturizer. The ingredients which influence the skin barrier function need to be identified, and the mechanism clarified at the molecular level.

In a previous study, 7-week treatment of normal human skin with two test moisturizers, Complex cream and Hydrocarbon cream, was shown to affect mRNA expression of certain genes involved in keratinocyte differentiation. Moreover, the treatment altered transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in opposite directions. In the present study, the mRNA expression of genes important for formation of barrier lipids, i.e., cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides, was examined. Treatment with Hydrocarbon cream, which increased TEWL, also elevated the gene expression of GBA, SPTLC2, SMPD1, ALOX12B, ALOXE3, and HMGCS1. In addition, the expression of PPARG was decreased. On the other hand, Complex cream, which decreased TEWL, induced only the expression of PPARG, although not confirmed at the protein level. Furthermore, in the untreated skin, a correlation between the mRNA expression of PPARG and ACACB, and TEWL was found, suggesting that these genes are important for the skin barrier homeostasis. The observed changes further demonstrate that long-term treatment with certain moisturizers may induce dysfunctional skin barrier, and as a consequence several signaling pathways are altered.

In a recent study, we showed that long-term treatment with two different moisturizers affected TEWL in opposite directions. Therefore, we decided to examine the effect of these moisturizers on the cellular and molecular level. In a randomized controlled study on 20 volunteers, epidermal mRNA expression of genes essential for keratinocyte differentiation and desquamation after a 7-week treatment with two moisturizers was analyzed. Treatment with one test moisturizer increased gene expression of involucrin, transglutaminase 1, kallikrein 5, and kallikrein 7, while the other moisturizer affected only expression of cyclin-dependent kinase inhibitor 1A. Thus, moisturizers are able to modify the skin barrier function and change the mRNA expression of certain epidermal genes. Since the type of influence depends on the composition of the moisturizer, these should be tailored in accordance with the requirement of the barrier of each individual patient, which merits further investigations.

Identification and reduction of external noxious factors is one key point in the strategy for the treatment and reduction of contact dermatitis. A wide variety of soaps on the market are claimed to be suitable for the use on sensitive skin due to their mildness. The aim of the present study was to illustrate possible differences in the irritation potential of 8 products and to investigate whether surfactant residues may form an irritant reservoir on the skin. The study was double-blind, randomized using healthy human volunteers. The inherent capacity of the products to induce irritation was determined using conventional patch test technique, whereas detection of potential surfactant residues on the skin was done using a methodology developed in the 1960s for detection of the corticosteroid reservoir in the stratum corneum. The method comprised the release of active substance from the stratum corneum reservoir by occlusion of the skin with an aluminium chamber, followed by evaluation of the biological response. In the present study, the soap-treated area was rinsed with water and then occluded. Instrumental measurements of the transepidermal water loss and superficial skin blood flow served as indicators of the injurious effects of the products. The results showed large differences in irritation potential between the products, and some of them demonstrated considerable damaging effect. Moreover, the study proved the presence of barrier-impairing residues on the skin after rinsing with water. Subclinical skin damage can make the skin vulnerable to further irritation and delay recovery of chronic irritant contact dermatitis.