Researchers and commercial suppliers worldwide pursue the objective of achieving a more transparent garment construction process that is computationally linked to a virtual body, in order to save development costs over the long term. The current aim is not to transfer the complete pattern making step to a 3D design environment but to work out basic constructions in 3D that provide excellent fit due to their accurate construction and morphological pattern grading (automatic change of sizes in 3D) in respect of sizes and body types. After a computer-aided derivation of 2D pattern parts, these can be made available to the industry as a basis on which to create more fashionable variations.

In the shoe manufacturing sector, products are typically designed for a small number of sample sizes, whereas all other shoe sizes in the range (for example, 2 to 4 shoe sizes below and above) are scaled using grading methods. However, the grading process significantly affects the fit and thus consumer acceptance. In this context, the shoe last forms the basis for all additional components to be used, such as insoles, midsoles, outsoles and heels. The entire shaft construction is based on the last as well. It also determines the fit of shoes. However, a method once established in the 1930s and still used today for the grading of shoe lasts is limited to only two dimensions, i.e. last length and technical ball circumference. The entire last is enlarged or reduced on the basis of these dimensions. The 3D CAD systems available today still employ the principle of mechanical last copying based on machines from the 1930s. Thus, the technical potential of these CAD systems is far from exhausted. An innovative grading process allows shoe companies to better utilize and significantly expand the performance potential and technical capabilities of their 3D CAD systems. As the required amount of manual work in preparation for grading and last generation is considerably decreased, development times are shortened.

Abstract. Researchers and commercial suppliers worldwide pursue the objective of achieving a more transparent garment construction process that is computationally linked to a virtual body, in order to save development costs over the long term. The current aim is not to transfer the complete pattern making step to a 3D design environment but to work out basic constructions in 3D that provide excellent fit due to their accurate construction and morphological pattern grading (automatic change of sizes in 3D) in respect of sizes and body types. After a computeraided derivation of 2D pattern parts, these can be made available to the industry as a basis on which to create more fashionable variations.

Recent developments in scanning technology have enabled researchers to scan persons at up to 180 frames per second with an accuracy of less than 1mm during movement. This allows a highly precise analysis of the interaction between body and textile as well as deformations of the fabric during movements. With the Move4D scanner, dynamic movement can be recorded and analysed very quickly. Thus, the authors are capable of making a significant contribution to the improvement of functional (e.g. sports and medical) and protective clothing by a digital process chain. The result of this research can be used for the applications on the product development of the tight-fitting and loosefitting garments. Advantages of the digital linked process chain based on scanner are as follows: i) The design cycle of clothing is shortened by early simulation. The influence of the material behaviour on the product design can be analysed at an early stage; ii) Modification between the 3D development and the 2D patterns is convenient and intuitive; iii) Sophisticated digital data management helps to increase the efficiency of the entire process chain.

This paper presents preliminary experimental results on the influence on the aerodynamic drag of a cylinder from the cylinder type (i.e., rigid or soft) and its textile surface. Both a rigid cylinder and a soft-body cylinder, with a gelatin layer, each with five different textile surfaces were measured in the wind tunnel using force measurement technology. The drag coefficient was determined for several Reynolds numbers. The study shows that the elasticity of a cylinder has a significant influence on the drag force and the airflow type. However, the influence of the soft-body cylinder depends on the respective fabric. With the given measurements, no exact statements can yet be made to quantify the influence. This influence must be studied independently and in conjunction with the textile surface in order to gain understanding of the overall system of airflow, textile and elastic body.