Detailed observations of the air flow velocity, pressure and reynolds stresses above water waves in a wave flume are presented. The static pressure fluctuations induced by the waves are observed following a new procedure that eliminates acoustical contamination by the wave maker. The measurements are analysed by comparing them with numerical simulations of the air flow over waves. In these numerical simulations the sensitivity to the choice of turbulence closure is studied. We considered both first-order turbulence closure schemes based on the eddy viscosity concept, and a second-order reynolds stress model. the comparison shows that turbulence closure schemes based on the eddy viscosity concept overestimate the modulation of the reynolds stress in a significant part of the vertical domain. When an eddy viscosity closure is used, the overestimated modulation of the reynolds stress gives a significant contribution to the wave growth rate. Our results confirm the conclusions belcher & hunt reached on the basis of the rapid distortion theory. The ratio of the wind speed to the phase speed of the paddle wave in the experiment varies between 3 and 6. The observed amplitudes of the velocity and pressure perturbation are in excellent agreement with the simulations. Comparison of the observed phases of the pressure and velocity perturbations shows that the numerical model underpredicts the downwind phase shift of the undulating flow. The sheltering coefficients for the flow over hills and the growth rates of waves that are slow compared to the wind calculated with the reynolds stress model are in excellent agreement with the analytical model of belcher & hunt. Extending the calculations to fast waves, we find that the energy flux to waves travelling almost as fast as the wind is increased on going from the mixing length turbulence closure to the reynolds stress model
The input of energy by wind to water waves is compared with the observed growth of the waves using a suite of microphysical measurement techniques in the laboratory. These include measured tangential stresses in the water and air immediately adjacent to the interface with corresponding form drag measurements above wind-forced freely propagating waves. The drag data sets are consistent but the comparison has highlighted important issues in relation to the measurement of fluctuating pressures above freely propagating waves. Derived normalized wind input values show good collapse as a function of mean wave steepness and are significantly in excess of the assembly of net wave growth measurements by Peirson & Garcia (J. ). The sheltering coefficients exhibit substantial scatter. By carefully measuring the associated growth of the surface wave fields, systematic energy budgets for the interaction between wind and waves are obtained. For non-breaking waves, there is a significant and systematic misclose in the radiative transfer equation if wave-turbulence interactions are not included. Significantly higher levels of turbulent wave attenuation are found in comparison with the theoretical estimates by Teixeira & Belcher (J. Suitable normalizations of attenuation for wind-forced wave fields exhibit consistent behaviour in the presence and absence of wave breaking. Closure of the surface energy flux budget is obtained by comparing the normalized energy loss rates due to breaking with the values previously determined by Banner & Peirson (J.rates obtained for non-wind forced breaking wave groups are remarkably consistent with the levels found during this present study when breaking waves are subject to wind forcing.
The influence of wind on extreme wave events in deep water is investigated experimentally and numerically. A series of experiments conducted in the Large Air–Sea Interactions Facility (LASIF-Marseille, France) shows that wind blowing over a short wave group due to the dispersive focusing of a longer frequency-modulated wavetrain (chirped wave packet) may increase the time duration of the extreme wave event by delaying the defocusing stage. A detailed analysis of the experimental results suggests that extreme wave events may be sustained longer by the air flow separation occurring on the leeward side of the steep crests. Furthermore it is found that the frequency downshifting observed during the formation of the extreme wave event is more important when the wind velocity is larger. These experiments have pointed out that the transfer of momentum and energy is strongly increased during extreme wave events.Two series of numerical simulations have been performed using a pressure distribution over the steep crests given by the Jeffreys sheltering theory. The first series corresponding to the dispersive focusing confirms the experimental results. The second series which corresponds to extreme wave events due to modulational instability, shows that wind sustains steep waves which then evolve into breaking waves. Furthermore, it was shown numerically that during extreme wave events the wind-driven current could play a significant role in their persistence.
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