The volatile profile of sparkling wine is influenced by the retention and release of volatile compounds by lees during the aging process. Here we attempted to identify the volatiles that are most retained by lees in aging conditions and to study how their sorption varies during aging. We estimated the lees sorption capacity for several representative volatile compounds in sparkling wine samples at a range of time points during aging by assessing the volatiles sorbed on the lees surface and those present in the corresponding wines. The sorption of volatiles was proportional to their hydrophobicity, and their retention by the lees surface changed during aging. The sorption of less hydrophobic compounds decreased after the first 2 months of aging, while that of the most hydrophobic volatiles increased until 18 months, and decreased dramatically thereafter. These results indicate that the length of aging on lees determines the type and the amount of wine volatiles removed with lees in the disgorging step. While most polar aromas seem to be released from the lees surface at the earliest stages of aging, highly hydrophobic compounds and esters in general are progressively retained and subsequently desorbed into wine. Changes in the physicochemical properties of the lees cell surface were monitored during aging, but these could explain only the decrease in the sorption of less hydrophobic compounds.
During sparkling wine aging, a narrow interaction is established between wine and lees of second fermentation, which remain in contact during long periods. In order to contribute to the knowledge on this interaction, volatile compounds retained by lees were described in this study. With this aim, solid phase microextraction (SPME) conditions were optimized in order to increase the sensibility for the analysis of volatiles sorbed by lees. This allowed proving the capacity of sparkling wine lees of second fermentation to retain several volatile compounds related with wine aroma: esters, aldehydes, norisoprenoids and terpenes known for their positive flavor impact were found in lees headspace. Most of them were previously described in "Cava" sparkling wine, while some compounds, such as the tentatively identified trimethyl tetrahydronaphthalenes, were not previously identified in yeasts or wine.
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