Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to present a comparative study on the characteristics of knitted fabrics used in the manufacturing of apparel, which are produced from organic cotton, lyocell and soybean protein fiber (SPF). It is important for both the environment and society that textile industry continues to adopt more ecofriendly materials and furthermore, pushes to increase awareness regarding these material choices available to the consumer and the corresponding impacts of consumers’ decisions. The use of sustainable fibers may be a starting point for changing the industrial paradigm of the textile industry. Design/methodology/approach – The research presented herein analyzes the potential use of three raw materials used in the development of knitted fabrics: organic cotton, lyocell and SPF. The experimental trials, based on norms, determined the weight, pilling, rupture pressure resistance, absorption by capillarity, dimensional alteration and elasticity. The significance of the experimental results was verified through the analysis of variance, with a confidence interval of 95 percent (p=0.05) and the determination of the optimal regulation of the machine was made through an analysis of the response surface. Findings – The results indicate that each of the studied materials are suitable for textile application; however, the fabrics manufactured from soybean yarn, compared to those manufactured from organic cotton or lyocell, have a higher potential to meet the needs of the costumer. Social implications – The discussion regarding sustainability is far reaching on the ways it interacts with human life. As such, the latent need for meeting this new demand presents a unique opportunity for the development of new processes and products. In the case of the textile industry, initiatives are gradually being adopted that make the processes used by the supply chain less damaging to the environment. Clothing and fashion are highly visible elements of society, so consequently, the textile industry serves as an excellent candidate for promoting a sustainable and eco-friendly mindset. Originality/value – The incorporation of sustainable fibers can serve as a starting point for change to the industrial paradigm existing within the textile industry. To this point, this study intended to analyze the potential implementation of three raw materials – organic cotton, lyocell and SPF – in the development of knitted fabrics. The results indicated that these materials are adequate for textile applications.

In recent years, there has been a substantial increase in the production of knitted fabrics with textured synthetic yarns in circular knitting machines. However, there are few studies for this type of yarn on the effects of variations in tension on circular knitting machines. In this work, we examine the variation in yarn tension before the positive feed and analyze its influence on the properties and quality of knitted fabrics produced with spun yarn and textured synthetic yarn. Knitted fabrics were produced with spun cotton yarn and textured microfiber nylon yarn (polyamide), which were analyzed with respect to loop length. The results demonstrate the importance of controlling the yarn feed tension when working with textured yarns, even with the use of a positive feed, in contrast to what occurs when spun yarn is used.

Esta revisão explora problema do pós-consumo do coco verde no Brasil. Inicialmente foi feita uma investigação sobre os aspectos gerais da indústria do coco e de seus derivados. A origem da geração dos subprodutos do coco e as consequências de tal indústria para a gestão rural e urbana também foram apontados. Em seguida, foram pesquisados artigos e relatórios científicos para conferir as propriedades e as possíveis aplicações dos subprodutos de coco. Para complementar, foram apresentadas diferentes visões sobre o conceito teórico do desenvolvimento sustentável aplicado ao design de produtos. Como resultado, a literatura cobre uma variada gama de aplicações para os subprodutos do coco em engenharia, entretanto, carece de pesquisas na área de gestão e logística da cadeia do coco. Conclui-se que os conceitos de sustentabilidade devem ser interpretados de forma ampla e objetiva em pesquisas futuras a fim de viabilizar o consumo e o pós-consumo sustentável da fruta.

This paper is based on the study of the application of the tools of design methodology in technological textile products also called smart fabrics. The application of the design methodology in the creative process took place in a textile factory by checking the contributions to the creativity, innovation, and quality. The purpose of studying the design practices in the use of resources and methods of the textile contributes to the development of the product and also meets the needs of customers. In this context, modifications were necessary to the development tools in the creative process that may cause the best use, reduction and cost containment improving the overall quality and meeting customers' needs. There is much talk about making products, refining and improving, but there is hardly any detailed application on how to carry it out, what parameters are used to such an achievement and what solutions are applied to the design process. The application in creative processes and product design follows parameters that are often provided by customers. The concepts that are linked to these product development processes, and the understanding of their purpose helps reveal the customers' needs.

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