From manufacturing to disposal, the textile industry faces multiple challenges to achieve sustainability and reduce its environmental impact. This work investigates the properties and composition of cellulose nanocrystals (CNCs) extracted from clothing waste made of cotton fibers. We isolated CNCs from cotton, polyester/cotton, and acrylic/cotton waste fabrics through acid hydrolysis with sulfuric acid. A yield of 51−62 wt % (cotton basis) was obtained, and nearly all the polyester and acrylic fibers contained in the initial fabrics were recovered in a convenient shape that could allow easier recycling. CNCs extracted from the selected fabrics showed high purity, similar structural, physical, and chemical characteristics, and their properties were comparable to those extracted from virgin sources, although their surface chemistry and elemental composition slightly differed. The chemical components in the waste fabrics and the extracted CNCs were evaluated through a nontarget chromatographic-mass spectrometric screening strategy. Both the recycled textiles and the CNCs contained hundreds of compounds common in postconsumer textiles, including some with health and environmental concerns. However, our initial findings show that their concentrations in the CNCs are negligible. Our results provide insights into the challenges associated with the use of cotton waste textiles for the extraction of cellulose nanoparticles, and into the potential applications of the extracted nanomaterials.

Background Azobenzene disperse dyes (azo DDs) are well‐known as textile allergens, but the knowledge of their occurrence in garments is low. The numerous azo DDs and dye components found in textiles constitute a potential health risk, but only seven azo DDs are included in the European baseline patch test series (EBS). Objectives To investigate non‐regulated azo DDs and dye components in synthetic garments on the Swedish market. Methods High‐performance liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry, gas chromatography/mass spectrometry and computerized data mining. Results Sixty‐two azo DDs were detected, with Disperse Red 167:1 occurring in 67%, and 14 other DDs each found in >20% of the garments. Notably, the EBS dyes were less common, three even not detected, while arylamines were frequently detected and exceeded 1 mg/g in several garments. Also, halogenated dinitrobenzenes were identified in 25% of the textiles. Conclusion Azo DDs and dye components, in complex compositions and with large variations, occurred frequently in the synthetic garments. The arylamines were shown to occur at much higher levels compared to the azo DDs, suggesting the former constitute a potentially higher health risk. The role of arylamines and halogenated dinitrobenzenes in textile allergy has to be further investigated.

The global manufacturing of clothing is usually composed of multistep processes, which include a large number of chemicals. However, there is generally no information regarding the chemical content remaining in the finished clothes. Clothes in close and prolonged skin contact may thus be a significant source of daily human exposure to hazardous compounds depending on their ability to migrate from the textiles and be absorbed by the skin. In the present study, twenty-four imported garments on the Swedish market were investigated with respect to their content of organic compounds, using a screening workflow. Reversed-phase liquid chromatography coupled to electrospray ionization/high-resolution mass spectrometry was used for both suspect and non-target screening. The most frequently detected compound was benzothiazole followed by quinoline. Nitroanilines with suspected mutagenic and possible skin sensitization properties, and quinoline, a carcinogenic compound, were among the compounds occurring at the highest concentrations. In some garments, the level of quinoline was estimated to be close to or higher than 50,000 ng/g, the limit set by the REACH regulation. Other detected compounds were acridine, benzotriazoles, benzothiazoles, phthalates, nitrophenols, and organophosphates. Several of the identified compounds have logP and molecular weight values enabling skin uptake. This pilot study indicates which chemicals and compound classes should be prioritized for future quantitative surveys and control of the chemical content in clothing as well as research on skin transfer, skin absorption, and systemic exposure. The results also show that the current control and prevention from chemicals in imported garments on the Swedish market is insufficient. Graphical abstract

The global production of textiles utilizes numerous large-volume chemicals that may remain to some extent in the finished garments. Arylamines, quinolines, and halogenated nitrobenzene compounds are possible mutagens, carcinogens and/or skin sensitizers. For prevention, control of clothing and other textiles must be improved, especially those imported from countries without regulations of textile chemicals. An automated analytical methodology with on-line extraction, separation, and detection would largely simplify screening surveys of hazardous chemicals in textiles. Automated thermal desorption-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (ATD-GC/MS) was developed and evaluated as a solvent-free, direct chemical analysis for screening of textiles. It requires a minimum of sample handling with a total run time of 38 min including sample desorption, chromatographic separation, and mass spectrometric detection. For most of the studied compounds, method quantification limit (MQL) was below 5 µg/g for 5 mg of textile sample, which is sufficiently low for screening and control of quinoline and arylamines regulated by EU. Several chemicals were detected and quantified when the ATD-GC/MS method was applied in a limited pilot screening of synthetic fiber garments. A number of arylamines were detected, where some of the halogenated dinitroanilines were found in concentrations up to 300 µg/g. This is ten times higher than the concentration limit for similar arylamines listed by the EU REACH regulation. Other chemicals detected in the investigated textiles were several quinolines, benzothiazole, naphthalene, and 3,5-dinitrobromobenzene. Based on the present results, we suggest ATD-GC/MS as a screening method for the control of harmful chemicals in clothing garments and other textiles. Graphical abstract