(i) In vivo CRS was validated as a technique to measure SC thickness on both palmoplantar and, particularly, on nonpalmoplantar skin sites. (ii) Moisturizers improve skin moisturization but in this study only formulation A improved SC thickness, water gradients and hydration as measured by CRS. We hypothesize that this was due to compositional differences between the products. We believe that niacinamide (nicotinamide, vitamin B(3)) is probably contributing significantly to this effect, as it has been proven to increase epidermal lipogenesis and SC barrier function in other studies. These results show that by using CRS, we were able for the first time to determine the effect of moisturizer on multiple SC barrier endpoints including SC thickness, and water content as a function of depth and total SC water content.

Application of new molecular and biochemical tools has greatly increased our understanding of the organisms, mechanisms, and treatments of dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. Dandruff results from at least three etiologic factors: Malassezia fungi, sebaceous secretions, and individual sensitivity. While Malassezia (formerly P. ovale) has long been a suspected cause, implicated by its presence on skin and lipophylic nature, lack of correlation between Malassezia number and the presence and severity of dandruff has remained perplexing. We have previously identified the Malassezia species correlating to dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. In this report, we show that dandruff is mediated by Malassezia metabolites, specifically irritating free fatty acids released from sebaceous triglycerides. Investigation of the toxic Malassezia free fatty acid metabolites (represented by oleic acid) reveals the component of individual susceptibility. Malassezia metabolism results in increased levels of scalp free fatty acids. Of the three etiologic factors implicated in dandruff, Malassezia, sebaceous triglycerides, and individual susceptibility, Malassezia are the easiest to control. Pyrithione zinc kills Malassezia and all other fungi, and is highly effective against the Malassezia species actually found on scalp. Reduction in fungi reduces free fatty acids, thereby reducing scalp flaking and itch.

Dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis (D/SD) are common hyperproliferative scalp disorders with a similar etiology. Both result, in part, from metabolic activity of Malassezia globosa and Malassezia restricta, commensal basidiomycete yeasts commonly found on human scalps. Current hypotheses about the mechanism of D/SD include Malassezia-induced fatty acid metabolism, particularly lipase-mediated breakdown of sebaceous lipids and release of irritating free fatty acids. We report that lipase activity was detected in four species of Malassezia, including M. globosa. We isolated lipase activity by washing M. globosa cells. The isolated lipase was active against diolein, but not triolein. In contrast, intact cells showed lipase activity against both substrates, suggesting the presence of at least another lipase. The diglyceride-hydrolyzing lipase was purified from the extract, and much of its sequence was determined by peptide sequencing. The corresponding lipase gene (LIP1) was cloned and sequenced. Confirmation that LIP1 encoded a functional lipase was obtained using a covalent lipase inhibitor. LIP1 was differentially expressed in vitro. Expression was detected on three out of five human scalps, as indicated by reverse transcription-PCR. This is the first step in a molecular description of lipid metabolism on the scalp, ultimately leading toward a test of its role in D/SD etiology.

BackgroundTretinoin is considered the benchmark prescription topical therapy for improving fine facial wrinkles, but skin tolerance issues can affect patient compliance. In contrast, cosmetic antiwrinkle products are well tolerated but are generally presumed to be less efficacious than tretinoin.ObjectivesTo compare the efficacy of a cosmetic moisturizer regimen vs. a prescription regimen with 0·02% tretinoin for improving the appearance of facial wrinkles.MethodsAn 8-week, randomized, parallel-group study was conducted in 196 women with moderate to moderately severe periorbital wrinkles. Following 2 weeks washout, subjects on the cosmetic regimen (n=99) used a sun protection factor (SPF) 30 moisturizing lotion containing 5% niacinamide, peptides and antioxidants, a moisturizing cream containing niacinamide and peptides, and a targeted wrinkle product containing niacinamide, peptides and 0·3% retinyl propionate. Subjects on the prescription regimen (n=97) used 0·02% tretinoin plus moisturizing SPF 30 sunscreen. Subject cohorts (n=25) continued treatment for an additional 16 weeks. Changes in facial wrinkling were assessed by both expert grading and image analysis of digital images of subjects’ faces and by self-assessment questionnaire. Product tolerance was assessed via clinical erythema and dryness grading, subject self-assessment, and determinations of skin barrier integrity (transepidermal water loss) and stratum corneum protein changes.ResultsThe cosmetic regimen significantly improved wrinkle appearance after 8 weeks relative to tretinoin, with comparable benefits after 24 weeks. The cosmetic regimen was significantly better tolerated than tretinoin through 8 weeks by all measures.ConclusionsAn appropriately designed cosmetic regimen can improve facial wrinkle appearance comparably with the benchmark prescription treatment, with improved tolerability.

A formulation containing the combination of niacinamide + NAG reduced the appearance of irregular pigmentation including hypermelaninization, providing an effect beyond that achieved with SPF 15 sunscreen.