No abstract

This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered.The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, non-linear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, non-linear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments. Keywords

Currents effects on waves have lead to many developments in numerical wave modeling over 5 the past two decades, from numerical choices to parameterizations. The performance of 6 numerical models in conditions with strong currents is reviewed here, and observed strong

Although the tendency for surge peaks in the Thames to occur on rising tide has been recognized for some time, no satisfactory physical explanation has been presented. The phenomenon almost certainly results from non-linear interaction between tide and surge and it is the mechanism of this interaction which is examined in the present study.A statistical analysis o f surges recorded at 10 ports located along the east coast of Britain demonstrated the development of interaction as surges propagate southwards. This analysis showed that surges tend to develop a peak on the rising tide in the Thames irrespective of the phase relationship between tide and surge in the northern North Sea.A one-dimensional model of the River Thames was used to examine how surge-tide interaction varied for surges of differing types. In order to identify the mechanics of interaction, a new modelling technique was developed involving two models, one of tidal propagation and one of surge propagation, operated simultaneously with cross-linkages in the form of perturbation terms providing the effects of interaction. By this means it was shown that quadratic friction is the dominant interaction mechanism in the Thames.

Wind waves and elevated water levels together can cause flooding in low-lying coastal areas, where the water level may be a combination of mean sea level, tides and surges generated by storm events. In areas with a wide continental shelf a travelling external surge may combine with the locally generated surge and waves and there can be significant interaction between the propagation of the tide and surge. Wave height at the coast is controlled largely by water depth so the effect of tides and surges on waves must be also be considered, while waves contribute to the total water level by means of wave setup through radiation stress. These processes are well understood and accurately predicted by models, assuming good bathymetry and wind forcing is available. Other interactions between surges and waves include the processes of surface wind-stress and bottom friction as well as depth and current refraction of waves by surge water levels and currents, and some of the details of these processes are still not well understood. The recent coastal flooding in Myanmar (May 2008) in the Irrawaddy River Delta is an example of the severity of such events, with a surge of over 3m exacerbated by heavy precipitation. Here we review the existing capability for combined modelling of tides, surges and waves, their interactions and the development of coupled models.Keywords: tides, storm surges, wind waves, coastal flooding, wave-current interaction, numerical modelling 1 Coastal Flooding -Impacts of coupled wave-surge-tide models Judith Wolf AbstractWind waves and elevated water levels together can cause flooding in low-lying coastal areas, where the water level may be a combination of mean sea level, tides and surges with storm surges and waves often being generated by the same storm event. In areas with a wide continental shelf a travelling external surge may combine with the locally generated surge and waves and there can be significant interaction between the propagation of the tide and surge. Wave height at the coast is controlled largely by water depth so the effect of tides and surges on waves must be also be considered, while waves contribute to the total water level by means of wave setup through radiation stress. These processes are well understood and accurately predicted by models, assuming good bathymetry and wind forcing is available. Other interactions between surges and waves include the processes of surface wind-stress and bottom friction as well as depth and current refraction of waves by surge water levels and currents, and some of the details of these processes are still not well understood. The recent coastal flooding in Myanmar (May 2008) in the Irrawaddy River Delta is an example of the severity of such events, with a surge of over 3m exacerbated by heavy precipitation. Here we review the existing capability for combined modelling of tides, surges and waves, their interactions and the development of coupled models.