Apparel as the product of standard sizing is reflected in female evaluation of self and body, i.e., body cathexis. This study focused upon body cathexis and the perceptions offit of clothing of 107 female consumers. Responses were measured on three scales: (1) satisfaction with fit of apparel at upper, lower, and total body; (2) satisfaction with fit at specific body sites; and (3) a body cathexis scale developed by Rosen and Ross. Analysis of data indicated satisfaction with overall fit at lower body was less satisfying than at upper body and total body. Satisfaction with fit at specific sites below the waist (hip and thigh) was also generally less satisfying than at sites above the waist (neck and arm). Fashion at the time, close fit at lower body, reflected in blue jeans and slim skirts, no doubt influenced more stringent evaluation of fit at lower body. The body cathexis scores were slightly lower for lower body and lower body sites. Correlation for lower body fit satisfaction and lower body cathexis was statistically significant, confirming a relationship between the respondents' satisfaction with fit and feelings towards personal body.

Many methods have been developed to measure the body in an effort to capture its dimensions for clothing. Measuring the human body has been important in developing garments tofit the body, and systems have reflected technology, needs of the consumer, andfocus of the apparel industry. The U. S. apparel industry has developed many techniques to measure the body, including custom-fitted to the individual, mass-sized and produced, and now, mass-customized. This paper reviews and evaluates historic and current methods of capturing body measurements, which are presented as linear methods, multiple probe methods, and body form methods, that use one or more of the following elements: point, length, surface, shape, and volume.

Continual exploration and understanding of the design process is necessary to advance and encourage implementation of this valuable tool in the field of textiles and clothing. This paper examines design processes used in related fields, presents a common structure that links these working methods, and demonstrates how the structure was used by a university design team to work with an industry client. Design processes used in fields that focus on the design of three-dimensional structures and spaces were reviewed. Salient features were examined and organized into three common stages of problem definition and research, creative exploration and development, and implementation. The project also demonstrates the application of the design process to a textile product design problem.

Garment simulation technology is expected to help reduce consumers’ apparel fit dissatisfaction in online shopping. However, the simulated garments must be accurate representations of real garments for consumers to accept this technology. The purpose of this study was to investigate users’ evaluations of the fidelity and accuracy of three-dimensional (3D) garment simulation technology used in a virtual online shopping scenario. Ferwerda’s Functional Realism Framework was used to examine garment simulation realism. Thirty-seven women participated in the study. Participants were scanned, and 3D virtual models were made from their scans. A set of pants (misses 2–20) was developed. These pants patterns were digitally input to the computer to develop virtual pants that were fit to the participants’ virtual models. Each participant evaluated the virtual pants fit and the real pants fit in a simulated shopping experience. Participants evaluated fit at 13 critical areas using a seven-point scale and then explained their evaluations during an interview. The overall accuracy and fidelity of the virtual simulation technology was moderately good, but not to the extent that the participants could perform all important aspects of the online fit evaluation. The overall physical appearances of the virtual pants were similar to the real pants. The pants length and the waistband position were accurately represented; however, fabric wrinkles were not accurately represented in the virtual simulation. Garment and body shape relationships were not accurately represented due to technological limitations. This study revealed aspects of garment simulation technology that warrant further research and development.

Relationships of sizing, body shape, and pattern shape to pants fit were explored for women aged 55 and older. Test pants were designed in two shape options (full/flat seat) in five sizes, produced, and tested on 176 participants in five states. Sizes were developed using ASTM D5586-94 data. Both participants and experts evaluated fit. Participants with flatter seat shape were significantly more satisfied with fit at the hip indicating that the introduction of a shape variable can improve satisfaction with fit for population segments with equivalent body shape variations. Experts were more critical, identifying areas of variation not addressed in the study. Results highlight the complexity of fit. Variations in body size, shape, proportion, and posture make creation of effective ready-to-wear sizing systems with a practical number of sizes difficult. Solutions to provide good fit may include creating sizing for a subset of mature women and developing custom fit methods.