Collagen is the main structural component of leather, skin, and some other applications such as medical scaffolds. All of these materials have a mechanical function, so the manner in which collagen provides them with their strength is of fundamental importance and was investigated here. This study shows that the tear strength of leather across seven species of mammals depends on the degree to which collagen fibrils are aligned in the plane of the tissue. Tear-resistant material has the fibrils contained within parallel planes with little crossover between the top and bottom surfaces. The fibril orientation is observed using small-angle X-ray scattering in leather, produced from skin, with tear strengths (normalized for thickness) of 20-110 N/mm. The orientation index, 0.420-0.633, is linearly related to tear strength such that greater alignment within the plane of the tissue results in stronger material. The statistical confidence and diversity of animals suggest that this is a fundamental determinant of strength in tissue. This insight is valuable in understanding the performance of leather and skin in biological and industrial applications.

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As hides and skins are processed to produce leather, chemical and physical changes take place that affect the strength and other physical properties of the material. The structural basis of these changes at the level of the collagen fibrils is not fully understood and forms the basis of this investigation. Synchrotron-based small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) is used to quantify fibril orientation and D-spacing through eight stages of processing from fresh green ovine skins to staked dry crust leather. Both the D-spacing and fibril orientation change with processing. The changes in thickness of the leather during processing affect the fibril orientation index (OI) and account for much of the OI differences between process stages. After thickness is accounted for, the main difference in OI is due to the hydration state of the material, with dry materials being less oriented than wet. Similarly significant differences in D-spacing are found at different process stages. These are due also to the moisture content, with dry samples having a smaller D-spacing. This understanding is useful for relating structural changes that occur during different stages of processing to the development of the final physical characteristics of leather.