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Cosmetic industries have an interest in exploring and developing materials that have the potential to regulate melanin synthesis in human skin. Although melanin protects the skin from ultraviolet irradiation, excess melanin can be undesirable, particularly on the face where spots or freckles are associated with an appearance of aging. In this study, we found that ent-11α-hydroxy-15-oxo-kaur-16-en-19-oic acid (11α-OH KA) in Pteris dispar Kunze strongly inhibited melanin synthesis by suppressing tyrosinase gene expression. The melanogenic transcription factor microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) is required for this suppression. However, 11α-OH KA did not modulate the expression level or activity of MITF. Structure-activity relationship analyses suggested that the 11α-OH, 15-oxo, and 16-en moieties of 11α-OH KA are essential for the suppression of melanin synthesis. On the other hand, the 19-COOH moiety is important for preventing cellular toxicity associated with 11α-OH KA and its related compounds. These results suggest that 11α-OH KA is an attractive target for potential use in the production of cosmetic items.

Cosmetic industries focus on developing materials and resources that regulate skin pigmentation. Melanin, the major pigment in human skin, protects the skin against damage from ultraviolet light. An ethanolic extract of the leaves of Callicarpa longissima inhibits melanin production in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells by suppressing microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) gene expression. Following purification and analysis using liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS), NMR, and biochemical assays, carnosol was determined to be responsible for the major inhibitory effect of the C. longissima extract on melanin production. Carnosol is an oxidative product of carnosic acid, whose presence in the extract was also confirmed by an authentic reference. The carnosol and carnosic acid content in the extract was approximately 16% (w/w). These results suggest that C. longissima is a novel, useful, and attractive source of skin-whitening agents.

We investigated the ephedrine alkaloid ((-)-ephedrine and (+)-pseudoephedrine) composition ratio of a crude Chinese herbal drug described in the Japanese Pharmacopoeia, "Ephedra Herb (Chinese name: Mahuang)". There were marked changes in the alkaloid composition ratio of wild plants in areas where both male and female clusters coexisted. However, in genetically homogeneous areas with the growth of male or female clusters alone, all of these regression lines' regression coefficients were positive, but each lean varied; This suggests that the alkaloid composition ratio has a clear tendency in each individual. Based on this, we cultivated individuals for vegetative propagation, and evaluated the alkaloid content ratio. Those propagated by separating the roots showed a specific tendency regardless of the cultivation area (Wakayama, Tanegashima). Those propagated by separating the herbaceous stem showed a specific tendency regardless of the soil or harvest time. In addition, we surveyed the (-)-ephedrine content ratio of 3-to 6-year-old strains. There was a high positive correlation coefficient between the previous and subsequent years.These findings suggest that the ephedrine alkaloid composition ratio of Ephedra Herb depends on genetic factors, but not on environmental factors or the growth period.