The growing interest in skin lightening has recently renewed attention on the esthetic applications of Chinese herbal medicine. Although Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi is used for antipyretic and antiinflammatory purposes, its whitening effect remains unclear. This study reports three major findings: (1) S. baicalensis has a potent inhibitory effect on melanogenesis; (2) wogonin and its glycoside are the active components of S. baicalensis; and (3) O-methylated flavones from S. baicalensis, such as wogonin, inhibit intracellular melanosome transport. Using a melanin quantification assay, we showed that S. baicalensis potently inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. Componential analyses revealed that the main components of S. baicalensis are baicalin, wogonoside, baicalein, wogonin, and oroxylin A. Among these five flavones, wogonin and wogonoside consistently inhibited melanogenesis in both B16F10 melanoma cells and primary melanocytes. Wogonin exhibited the strongest inhibition of melanin production and markedly lightened the color of skin equivalents. We identified microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and tyrosinase-related proteins as potential targets of wogonin- and wogonoside-induced melanogenesis suppression. In culture, we found that the melanosomes in wogonin-treated B16F10 cells were localized to the perinuclear region. Immunoblotting analyses revealed that wogonin significantly reduced in melanophilin protein, which is required for actin-based melanosome transport. Other actin-based melanosome transport-related molecules, i.e., Rab27A and myosin Va, were not affected by wogonin. Cotreatment with MG132 blocked the wogonin-induced decrease in melanophilin, suggesting that wogonin promotes the proteolytic degradation of melanophilin via the calpain/proteasomal pathway. We determined that the structural specificities of the mono-O-methyl group in the flavone A-ring and the aglycone form were responsible for reducing melanosome transport. Furthermore, wogonin and two wogonin analogs, mono-O-methyl flavones, strongly suppressed melanosome transport. Our findings suggest the applicability of S. baicalensis in the esthetic field. Thus, we propose a novel pharmacologic approach for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.

Peptide transporter 2 (PEPT2) is a member of the proton-coupled oligopeptide transporter family, which mediates the cellular uptake of oligopeptides and peptide-like drugs. Although PEPT2 is expressed in many tissues, its expression in epidermal keratinocytes remains unclear. We investigated PEPT2 expression profile and functional activity in keratinocytes. We confirmed PEPT2 mRNA expression in three keratinocyte lines (normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs), immortalized keratinocytes, and malignant keratinocytes) by reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) and quantitative real-time RT-PCR. In contrast to PEPT1, PEPT2 expression in the three keratinocytes was similar or higher than that in HepG2 cells, used as PEPT2-positive cells. Immunolocalization analysis using human skin showed epidermal PEPT2 localization. We studied keratinocyte transport function by measuring the oligopeptide content using liquid chromatography/tandem mass spectrometry. Glycylsarcosine uptake in NHEKs was pH-dependent, suggesting that keratinocytes could absorb small peptides in the presence of an inward H(+) gradient. We also performed a skin-permeability test of several oligopeptides using skin substitute, suggesting that di- and tripeptides pass actively through the epidermis. In conclusion, PEPT2 is expressed in keratinocytes and involved in skin oligopeptide uptake.

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It is suggested that kallikrein-related peptidases (KLKs) are key players in corneocyte desquamation and this process is regulated by lympho-epithelial Kazal-type inhibitor (LEKTI). However, it is unclear how these proteases are activated and how activated KLKs are released from LEKTI in the upper cornified layer. Previously we reported cloning of a new PRSS3 gene product, keratinocyte-specific mesotrypsin from the cDNA library. It has been reported that mesotrypsin is insusceptible to intrinsic inhibitors. Moreover, we found that mesotrypsin effectively activated pro-KLK5 and pro-KLK7. Although LEKTI strongly inhibited KLKs, mesotrypsin was not suppressed by LEKTI but rather degraded them. Surprisingly, we isolated a novel inhibitor and identified it as serpinB12 (Another name is YUKOPIN). Thin skin, such as the eyelid, showed strong mesotrypsin staining, while serpinB12 staining was barely detectable. In contrast, footpad skin, which has a thick cornified layer, showed strong serpinB12 staining at the granular layer. We constructed skin equivalent models, in which serpinB12 was over-expressed or knocked-down. Cornified layers were increased and the epidermis became thicker in serpinB12 over-expression. When serpinB12 was downregulated, the epidermal structure became very thin. Furthermore, we found that excessive over-expression of serpinB12 induced parakeratosis. Immunohistochemical study showed that serpinB12 was expressed in parakeratic area of diseased skin, such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. Our findings provided a new insight into the desquamation mechanisms, in which mesotrypsin and serpinB12 play critical roles. Moreover, our results suggest that serpinB12 would be involved in controlling the thickness of stratum corneum through mesotrypsin regulation, and excessive serpinB12 expression might be the cause of parakeratotic disease condition.