Objective To assess the impacts of sun exposures on some skin signs on the faces and hands of differently aged Japanese women, according to their distinct behaviours towards vis à vis sun exposure. Methods Two comparable cohorts of Japanese women (aged 18–83 years) were created according to their usual behaviour towards sun exposure i.e. non‐sun‐phobic (N = 495) and sun‐phobic (N = 516) and through their regular use(s) of a photo‐protective product. Standard photographs (full‐face and 45° lateral) allowed to focus on 18 facial signs that were graded by 15 experts, using a referential skin ageing Atlas. From these two cohorts, two sub‐cohorts (114 and 122 women) were created with regard to the similar clinical aspects of the dorsal side of their hands (Left vs. Right) that were further graded. Absolute differences in the scores of each sign were used (non‐sun‐phobic minus sun‐phobic), by age‐ranges, to better ascertain the impact of sun exposures and photo‐protection. Results Facial signs related to skin wrinkles/texture and pigmentary spots were found significantly more accentuated among non‐sun‐phobic women and show an early onset (20–30 years). Facial sagging and crow’s feet wrinkles appear delayed (30–40 years). The severity of vascular disorders was found to be similar in the two cohorts. The absolute differences in the grading’s of almost all signs were unsurprisingly found increased with advancing ages, illustrating the combination of chronological and photo‐ageing processes. With regard to hands, differences in skin texture and pigmentary disorders are of a late onset (40–50 years) and were found much increased at older ages. The cutaneous signs of the hands of Japanese women can hardly be taken as reliable markers of their photo‐ageing status. Conclusion The present work illustrates, for the first time, some specificities of the impact of sun exposures on the facial skin of Japanese women, pinpointing the fact that some facial signs are of an early onset. Results significantly confirm the importance of both sun avoidance coupled with photo‐protective measures.
Background: Color imaging is a tried and true method for the evaluation of cosmetic and dermatological effects, but it fails to capture all the information in a scene's spectral reflectance. For this reason, there has been in recent years increasing interest in the use of imaging spectrometers for clinical studies and product evaluation. Material and methods:We developed a novel HyperSpectral Imager (HSI) able to take in vivo full-face format images as a next generation instrument for skin color measurement and beyond. Here, we report part of the results of our first full-scale validation test of the HSI. We replicated a make-up foundation screening test by applying three products to a panel of 9 models and evaluated the product L * , a * , b * , and ∆E effect immediately after application relative to the bare skin condition. We repeated this test twice in order to study the repeatability of the HSI as an evaluation instrument and during each test two different operators duplicated the data acquisition so we can assess the reproducibility of the measurements. Results:We find that the measurements from the HSI provide repeatability and reproducibility as good or better than those of our previous benchmark devices. Conclusion:From these results, we conclude that not only is the HSI suitable for use in color evaluation studies, but also that it gives operational advantages over the previous generation of evaluation instruments, as it provides a spectral measurement combined with good spatial resolution. This allows for analysis of color over an area and post hoc selection of study regions and so opens new possibilities for studies of complex in vivo phenomena which neither non-imaging spectrometers nor conventional cameras can pursue. This study also raises points for future work concerning proper inclusion of instrument uncertainty in comparisons of results between instruments and handling of systematic uncertainties from analyses based on a single area.
Background The recent COVID‐19 pandemic has generalized the use of face mask in public area, and it is now common to wear it for long hours. But face mask interfere with cosmetics, and key concerns for tinted products are staining of the mask and degradation on face. Consumers have modified beauty routine by a decrease of makeup, but are now expecting new products adapted to face mask. Little is known about the mechanisms that affect most the makeup under the face mask, so that further studies are needed to develop adequate evaluation methods and products. In this study, the color transfer on mask and makeup degradation on face are assessed through a mixed approach of consumer and instrumental evaluation. Materials and Methods Two tinted face products (A and B) were applied by half face on 11 Japanese women, who conducted real‐life activities with a face mask during 4 hours. Panelists evaluated the stain of their face mask by visual assessment, while the makeup degradation on face was evaluated by color measurement by instrumental method. Results No difference was observed between the two products for lasting on face, but consumer evaluation showed a better resistance of product A for color transfer on mask. Conclusion The mix of instrumental and consumer evaluation is a promising way to evaluate the makeup degradation on face and color transfer on mask, which are two key factors to develop mask resistant makeup products.
Objective: Until now, standardized evaluation of cosmetic effects was conducted mainly in still conditions such as pictures. In real life, the consumers' experience of their cosmetics' effects is dynamic and some of the benefits can be better observed under movement. In order to capture motion-related performance of cosmetics, we developed a video-based paired comparison on an online platform. Methods:We validated this new tool through the evaluation of eyeshadow with high light reflection and colour gradation, especially visible under motion according to the observer point of view. This formula was compared with two marketed benchmarks. The three products were applied sequentially on the eyelid of eight Japanese women. Videos were taken in standardized light, speed and face position with a rotating camera around the face. The videos were uploaded on an online secured platform and eyelid 3D effect, highlight and colour gradation were evaluated through paired comparison test by 60 Japanese women from home on their PC or tablets. Those results were compared with picture-based paired comparison by the same observers. Results: Video-based paired comparison provided higher discrimination of products compared to picture-based comparison. Conclusion:As compared to still camera acquisition, the evaluation of cosmetics based on videos is closer to real-life experience and can bring higher discrimination, especially for motion-related attributes.
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