No abstract

Sea state is a key variable in ocean and coastal dynamics. The sea state is either sparsely measured by wave buoys and satellites or modelled over large scales. Only a few attempts have been devoted to sea state measurements covering a large domain; in particular its estimation from optical images. With optical technologies becoming omnipresent, optical images offer incomparable spatial resolution from diverse sensors such as shore-based cameras, airborne drones (unmanned aerial vehicles/UAVs), or satellites. Here, we present a standalone methodology to derive the water surface elevation anomaly induced by wind-generated ocean waves from optical imagery. The methodology was tested on drone and satellite images and compared against ground truth. The results show a clear dependence on the relative azimuth view angle in relation to the wave crest. A simple correction is proposed to overcome this bias. Overall, the presented methodology offers a practical way of estimating ocean waves for a wide range of applications.

A conceptual analysis of the coupling between bars and infragravity waves is performed combining laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. Experiments are carried out in a wave flume with a barred profile. The Boussinesq fully-nonlinear model SERR1D is validated with the laboratory data and a sensitivity analysis is performed next to study the influence on the infragravity wave dynamics of bar amplitude and location, and swash zone slope. A novel technique of incident and reflected motions separation that conserves temporal characteristics is applied. We observe that changing bar characteristics induces substantial variations in trapped energy. Interestingly, a modification of swash zone slope has a large influence on the reflected component, controlling amplitude and phase time-lag, and consequently on the resonant pattern. Variations of trapped infragravity energy induced by changes of swash zone slope reach 25 %. These changes in infragravity pattern consequently affect short-wave dynamics by modifying the breakpoint location and the breaking intensity. Our conceptual investigation suggests the existence of a morphological feedback through the action of evolving morphology on infragravity structures which modulates the action of short-waves on the morphology itself.

Michallet, et al.. Vertical distribution of Skewness and asymmetry in a boundary layer on a mobile bed. Experiment and k-ω model comparison. La Houille Blanche -Revue internationale de l'eau, EDP Sciences, 2014, pp.ABSTRACT. -As the waves approach the coast, non-linearities become increasingly stronger. The interactions between the waves and loose bottoms then generate complex features within the turbulent boundary layer, which are difficult to measure and model. Experiments involving non-linear wave propagation over a mobile bed with detailed boundary layer velocity measurements and bottom elevations are presented. These data suggest a transformation in velocity time series as they are measured closer to the bed within the boundary layer with an increase in velocity skewness and a reduction in asymmetry. Additionally the vertical diffusion of momentum within the boundary layer is shown to be one order of magnitude larger than that over fixed beds. A k-ω model accounting for the measured bed level variations is used to mimic the flow in the boundary layer. In this work we present a strategy to combine bottom level variations with a k-ω model and show that it is possible to reproduce the observed experimental results. The bed vertical mobility is shown to be largely responsible for additional vertical diffusion of momentum within the boundary layer.

We present experimental and numerical analysis of nonlinear processes responsible for generating infragravity waves in the nearshore. We provide new experimental data on random wave propagation and associated velocity profiles in the shoaling and surf zones of a very mild slope beach. We analyze low frequency wave generation mechanisms and dynamics along the beach and examine in detail the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model SERR1D (Cienfuegos et al., 2010) to reproduce the complex dynamics of high frequency wave propagation and energy transfer mechanisms that enhance infragravity wave generation in the laboratory.