Analysis of lipid functions suggested that the main reason for SS development in women might be a barrier dysfunction caused by excessive apoptosis and lack of water. Therefore, anti-allergy additives in cosmetic products that could inhibit apoptosis of keratinocytes and methods to maintain the stability of water molecules in the skin should be further studied.
This review focuses on the causes of sensitive skin and elaborates on the relationship between skin sensitivity and skin irritations and allergies, which has puzzled cosmetologists. Here, an overview is presented of the research on active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin (anti-sensitive ingredients), which is followed by a discussion of their experimental efficacy. Moreover, several evaluation methods for the efficacy of anti-sensitive ingredients are classified and summarized. Through this review, we aim to provide the cosmetic industry with a better understanding of sensitive skin, which could in turn provide some theoretical guidance to the research on targeted cosmetic products.R esum e Cette revue se concentre sur les causes de la peau sensible et des pr ecisions sur la relation entre la sensibilit e de la peau et des irritations cutan ees et des allergies, qui ont intrigu e les cosm etologues. Ici, une vue d'ensemble est pr esent ee de la recherche sur les ingr edients actifs dans les produits cosm etiques pour la peau sensible (des ingr edients anti-sensibles), qui est suivie d'une discussion de leur efficacit e exp erimentale. En outre, plusieurs m ethodes d' evaluation de l'efficacit e des ingr edients anti-sensibles sont class ees et r esum ees. Grâce a cet examen, nous visons a fournir l'industrie cosm etique avec une meilleure compr ehension de la peau sensible, qui pourrait a son tour fournir quelques indications th eoriques a la recherche sur les produits cosm etiques cibl es.
Background
Sensitive skin is the result of a complex process that is closely linked to the damage of the skin barrier. There are no recognized methods for evaluating the efficacy of anti-allergy products.
Methods
In this study, a model of skin barrier damage was created by treating HaCaT cells with 60 μg/ml of sodium dodecyl sulfate for 48 h. The protective effects of nine cosmetic ingredients, including oat extract (S1), on the skin barrier were investigated based on the gene expression levels of aquaporin3 (AQP3), filaggrin (FLG), caspase-14 (CASP14), and human tissue kallikrein7 (KLK7), as well as those of various interleukins (IL) and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF).
Results
Among the nine ingredients, S1 had a good protective effect on the function of the skin barrier. It promoted the expression of AQP3, FLG, and CASP14, while inhibiting the expression of KLK7 in HaCaT cells, at a concentration of 0.06%. It also maintained IL-6, IL-8, and VEGF at appropriate levels while promoting the proliferation and differentiation of HaCaT cells.
Conclusions
The above indicators allow for the preliminary establishment of a method to evaluate the efficacy of the barrier protection ability of sensitive skin.
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