The particular behavior during wine aging of fermentative branched fatty acid ethyl esters, related to yeast nitrogen metabolism, compared that of their straight-chain analogues, related to yeast lipid metabolism, was first checked in 1-5 year aged Muscadet wines. Quantitative SIDA measurements showed that the levels of the former increased, whereas those of the latter decreased. Then, three hypothetical pathways suggested in the literature to explain these variations of branched esters were investigated. Two Muscadet and Sylvaner wines were spiked with levels of deuterated isobutanoic acid and its ethyl ester, similar to those of their natural analogues, then they were submitted to model aging. Quantitative SIDA measurements on the formation of these natural and labeled ethyl esters from the corresponding acids revealed that the behavior of the natural and labeled compounds were similar. The acid levels were much higher than the ester levels in the initial young wine, and a significant upward trend of their esterification ratios to those of the acid-ester equilibrium was observed with aging. Thus, this equilibrium proved to be the most effective in generating the branched fatty acid ethyl esters during wine aging. In contrast, the formation of these acids by Strecker-type degradation of wine amino acids in the conditions of the model aging or by hydrolysis of their glycoconjugates proved to be ineffective.
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