Carotenoids are useful oral sun protectants, and supplementation with high doses of beta-carotene protects against UV-induced erythema formation. We compared the erythema-protective effect of beta-carotene (24 mg/d from an algal source) to that of 24 mg/d of a carotenoid mix consisting of the three main dietary carotenoids, beta-carotene, lutein and lycopene (8 mg/d each). In a placebo-controlled, parallel study design, volunteers with skin type II (n = 12 in each group) received beta-carotene, the carotenoid mix or placebo for 12 wk. Carotenoid levels in serum and skin (palm of the hand), as well as erythema intensity before and 24 h after irradiation with a solar light simulator were measured at baseline and after 6 and 12 wk of treatment. Serum beta-carotene concentration increased three- to fourfold (P < 0.001) in the beta-carotene group, whereas in the mixed carotenoid group, the serum concentration of each of the three carotenoids increased one- to threefold (P < 0.001). No changes occurred in the control group. The intake of either beta-carotene or a mixture of carotenoids similarly increased total carotenoids in skin from wk 0 to wk 12. No changes in total carotenoids in skin occurred in the control group. The intensity of erythema 24 h after irradiation was diminished in both groups that received carotenoids and was significantly lower than baseline after 12 wk of supplementation. Long-term supplementation for 12 wk with 24 mg/d of a carotenoid mix supplying similar amounts of beta-carotene, lutein and lycopene ameliorates UV-induced erythema in humans; the effect is comparable to daily treatment with 24 mg of beta-carotene alone.

Astronauts often show skin reactions in space. Systematic tests, e.g. with noninvasive skin physiological test methods, have not yet been done. In an interdisciplinary cooperation, a test series with skin physiological measurements was carried out before, during and after a long-term mission in the International Space Station. The hydration of the stratum corneum (Corneometer), transepidermal water loss (Tewameter), and the surface structure of the skin (SkinVisiometer) were measured. In order to record cutaneous states, the suction elasticity was measured (Cutometer), and an ultrasound measurement with 20 MHz (DermaScan) was also made. In addition, one measuring field of the two inner forearms was treated with a skin care emulsion. There were indications of a delayed epidermal proliferation of the cells, which would correspond to the clinical symptoms. Hydration and TEWL values are improved by respective skin care. On the cutaneous level, the elasticity measurements and the ultrasound picture showed results which correspond to a significant loss of elasticity of the skin. Further examinations are necessary to validate these preliminary results.

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Citation: IFSCC Magazine, 11 (2008) (3) [217][218][219][220][221][222][223] Epidermal differentiation is crucial to guarantee a physiological cornification process. The cornified envelope is the final skin barrier which protects against external aggressions such as UV light and reduces water loss. Skin ageing is associated with decreased functionality of this barrier and reduced epidermal differentiation. We present a new bioactive complex for the stimulation of protein synthesis associated with cornified envelope and markers of epidermal differentiation. Composed of a hydrolyzed oat protein extract and particularly rich in glutamine and glutamic acid combined with ATP and niacinamide, 1% of this complex increases significantly the synthesis of proteins such as filaggrin, late envelope protein and small proline-rich proteins, all markers of epidermal differentiation, in a reconstituted human skin model as measured by DNA array chip analysis, reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction and immunohistochemistry. When a cream containing 3% of this bioactive complex was applied to the skin of 25 human volunteers, an increase in skin hydration of more than 60% after 14 days of application and a reduction of wrinkles and roughness by more than 50% in 4 weeks were observed compared with a placebo cream. In conclusion, the bioactive complex stimulated synthesis of proteins which are important for epidermal differentiation and skin barrier function and was helpful in fighting skin ageing. Citation: IFSCC Magazine, 11 (2008) (3) 225-229The dermis is considered a highly dynamic structure that determines the biomechanical properties of the skin. It is composed of two dermal compartments separated by a vascular plexus: the papillary dermis and the reticular dermis. In the last few years, several studies have demonstrated the role of the dermal epidermal junction in the cutaneous ageing process. Recently, teams specialized in the study of the dermal matrix have focused their studies on the superior dermis in close contact with the dermal epidermal junction: the papillary dermis. They defined the role of matrix proteins in this area. Collagens XII and XVI, non-fibrillar collagens specific to the papillary dermis, are responsible for skin deformability and extensibility. Oxytalan fibres are related to elastic properties of the skin. Ubiquitous collagens such as collagens I and VI are associated with the cohesion and the resistance of the dermis. As the papillary dermis is the primary site of intrinsic dermal ageing, we studied expression of these molecules in our own in vitro model of intrinsic ageing of the papillary dermis. The results of this innovative approach confirmed that their expression was reduced. Nevertheless, active molecules may exist in nature that are capable of restoring a normal expression profile of these markers for a cosmetic anti-ageing application.