Purpose -To demonstrate that the current weaknesses in women's ready-to-wear size standardization charts originate not only in the obsolescence of the base data but also in the non-adherence of order initiators to the suggested standard sizes. Design/methodology/approach -Trouser manufacturers were selected in such a way as to cover the full price-range spectrum. They provided their waist standard measurements and confirmed that they use the same measurements for all product lines. In-store measurements were done. Garments were chosen at random from the selection offered in store and measured systematically. The specifications provided by the order initiators, the standard measurements prescribed, and the garment measures were all measured. Findings -Results clearly indicate that order initiators do not adhere to the standard sizes charts and garment manufacturers are incapable or unwilling to produce garments that meet the order initiators' specifications.Research limitations/implications -Product selection and limited sample do not allow generalization yet clearly confirm this hypothesis. Practical implications -Questions the pertinence of investing heavily in the modernization of standard sizes charts if the industry and the governments are not ready to impose adherence by order initiators. Originality/value -Fills an important void in the existing literature as, although a number of authors have stated that garment manufacturers do not respect the standard sizes proposed by different national organizations or governmental agencies, the authors could not identify one research demonstrating this fact.

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to show that a new size labelling system based on the data gathered by [TC]2 in the Size USA, Let's Size up America survey would better serve the female population than the system currently in use.Design/methodology/approachBased on previous research conducted on [TC]2 data and on pants measurements in the Canadian market, a new labelling system is proposed where size information is provided with three specific body measurements along with a female silhouette pictogram.FindingsThe paper demonstrates that a size label showing three pants measurements: pants waist, approximate hips, and inseam length, accompanied by a silhouette identifying where these measures were taken, is highly predictive of fit.Research limitations/implicationsThe study was limited to lower body (pants) for female.Practical implicationsA change to such a size‐labelling system would allow the apparel industry to move towards mass customisation at minimal costs. It would be more effective for the apparel order givers and retailers, enabling them to target whichever market they wish yet convey the necessary fit information in a generally accepted format. This system would also be more efficient as it would reduce the consumer time spent in fit identification and merchandise returns, in the case of internet or catalogue sales. As a corollary, it would increase both consumer shopping experience satisfaction and industry profitability.Originality/valueThe study proposes a new labelling system.

In the USA, Canada and Europe labels that disclose garments' composition, origin, commercial brand or price at point of sale are required. No law governs garment size labels and underlying measurements. Standard size chart determination is not an easy task and has always been challenging for national institutes of standardization, manufacturers and retailers. Moreover, size standards are voluntary, therefore those who initiate garment orders can decide whether or not to adhere to national standards. Since size labels and standards are voluntary, some of the buyers or their intermediaries prefer to target specific 'silhouette and shape' markets by adapting their measurements, while others play the vanity sizing card. Confusion occurs as companies in North America all use the same numerical size labeling systems. The research discussed in this paper demonstrates that manufacturers in North America size garments (pants) according to their own, specific target markets (which differ from one another), to cover most of the population; they then label these garments with reference to a single numerical code size labeling system which leads to chaos in the market place. Besides being challenging for the apparel industry, the size label system creates an ambiguous situation for the consumer who cannot rely on the size label to identify a good fitting garment, and thus is spending undue time trying clothes. We conclude that the time has come to standardize the size label in order to provide better fitting clothes for readyto-wear.

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Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to validate that young American experiencers perceive cashmere as the most luxurious animal fiber, to investigate if because expensive it is perceived as more luxurious (Veblen theory), to learn how they know about its intrinsic values, lastly to explore if articulating the story behind luxury goods can enhance shopping experience, thus building a sustainable competitive advantage for retailers. Design/methodology/approach – This research was conducted using a survey to gather quantitative data followed by focus group. A questionnaire was developed and distributed to a group of almost 200 young American experiencers. Findings – The results show that the subjects had a significant lack of knowledge about the provenance of cashmere (the fibre) and its intrinsic attributes. Once the subjects were told about the characteristics, the provenance and the whole process of the supply chain starting with the farmers combing the goats to the delivery of the end goods, it seems obvious that articulating the story behind luxury goods would enhance the shopping experience and provide a sustainable competitive advantage for retailers. Research limitations/implications – This survey was conducted on a sample of 196 respondents, from one specific geographic area. It would benefit from being extended to a wider scope of demographic and geographic including Europe and Asia. Originality/value – This study supports that time has come for retailers to shift from marketing visual images to the story telling.