No abstract

The leather industry is currently between two opposing paths: on the one hand, recent legislative trends in terms of the eco-sustainability of industrial processes are leading leather manufacturing towards the development of cleaner production methods; on the other hand, the spread of new alternative materials to leather is driving the leather industry to improve its competitiveness by developing new innovative and high-quality products. Leather finishing is one of the most important phases of leather production, and is capable of improving its quality and organoleptic properties. However, this phase is characterized by the use of polluting chemical products, such as volatile organic compounds, potentially toxic crosslinking agents, and hardly biodegradable resins. In this context, this research work aims to develop a finishing formulation capable of giving leather the durability and quality properties required by the market, while at the same time, being eco-sustainable. Specifically, the aim of the present work is to suggest a new finishing formulation in terms not only of green technology but also of a circular production flow, by recovering solid leather wastes. The developed finishing system is based on the application of collagen, extracted from tanned wastes through an enzymatic treatment, to be cross-linked and bound to the leather surface. This new bio-based leather finish is compared to a resin-based leather finish, and shows the same quality standards as those requested by the market.

Leather industry produces huge amounts of solid wastes. In the last decade, several methods for the recovery and valorization of these wastes were developed, mainly focused on the extraction of collagen using chemical methods. The extracted collagen, due to its poor quality, is mostly used in agriculture as a nitrogen source ingredient of fertilizers. This study aims to apply collagen, extracted from leather tanned solid wastes using a recently reported new process based on enzymatic hydrolysis, as filling agent for low quality leather. Thanks to the enzymatic hydrolysis, collagen can be extracted without affecting its integrity and, therefore, its quality. In order to use the extracted collagen as filler for low quality leather, an enzymatic mediated cross-linking reaction between collagen and casein was developed. The enzymatic cross-linking reaction was added as an additional phase of the re-tanning process or as a replacement of one of the re-tanning steps. To evaluate the filling effect, thickness of the treated leather was measured and infrared and microscopy analyses were performed, comparing the new methods to the traditional standard one. The mechanical properties of the filled leather were tested and the sensorial features, such as fullness and touch feelings, were estimated through a panel test. Results suggest the high potential of extracted collagen to be employed back in leather processing both as additive and as substitutive filler. Graphical abstract

Leather industry produces huge amounts of solid wastes. In the last decade, several methods for the recovery and valorization of these wastes were developed, mainly focused on the extraction of collagen using chemical methods. The extracted collagen, due to its poor quality, is mostly used in agriculture as a nitrogen source ingredient of fertilizers. This study aims to apply collagen, extracted from leather tanned solid wastes using a recently reported new process based on enzymatic hydrolysis, as filling agent for low quality leather. Thanks to the enzymatic hydrolysis, collagen can be extracted without affecting its integrity and, therefore, its quality. In order to use the extracted collagen as filler for low quality leather, an enzymatic mediated cross-linking reaction between collagen and casein was developed. The enzymatic cross-linking reaction was added as an additional phase of the re-tanning process or as a replacement of one of the re-tanning steps. To evaluate the filling effect, thickness of the treated leather was measured and infrared and microscopy analyses were performed, comparing the new methods to the traditional standard one. The mechanical properties of the filled leather were tested and the sensorial features, such as fullness and touch feelings, were estimated through a panel test. Results suggest the high potential of extracted collagen to be employed back in leather processing both as additive and as substitutive filler.