Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin care purposes. Nowadays, they are becoming more prevalent in formulations, due to consumers' concerns about synthetic ingredients/chemical substances. The main benefits reported for plant extracts, used in skin care, include antioxidant and antimicrobial activities and tyrosinase inhibition effect. In this review, some examples of plants from Portuguese flora, whose extracts have shown good properties for skin care are presented. However, despite the known properties of plant extracts, few studies reported the development of formulations with them. More work in this field can be accomplished to meet consumer demand.

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With the obtained results, it is possible to conclude that the proposed methods for mechanical characterization can be correlated with sensorial perception obtained from volunteers, representing a faster and less expensive alternative than sensory analysis.

Emulsions are the most common form of skin care products. However, these systems may exhibit some instability. Therefore, when developing emulsions for topical application it is interesting to verify whether they have suitable physical and mechanical characteristics and further assess their stability. The aim of this work was to study the stability of emulsion systems, which varied in the proportion of the emulsifying agent cetearyl alcohol (and) sodium lauryl sulfate (and) sodium cetearyl sulfate (LSX), the nature of the oily phase (decyl oleate, cyclomethicone or dimethicone) and the presence or absence of pumice (5% w/w). While maintaining the samples at room temperature, rheology studies, texture analysis and microscopic observation of formulations with and without pumice were performed. Samples were also submitted to an accelerated stability study by centrifugation and to a thermal stress test. Through the testing, it was found that the amount of emulsifying agent affects the consistency and textural properties such as firmness and adhesiveness. So, formulations containing LSX (5% w/w) and decyl oleate or dimethicone as oily phase had a better consistency and remained stable with time, so exhibited the best features to be used for skin care products.Uniterms: Emulsions/topical use/stability study. Emulsions/topical use/characterization. Pumice/presence in emulsions. Emulsions/texture. Emulsions/rheology. Emulsions/spreadability.Emulsões são a forma de apresentação mais comum dos produtos para aplicação na pele. No entanto estes sistemas podem exibir alguma instabilidade. Por esta razão, quando do desenvolvimento de emulsões para aplicação tópica é importante verificar se estas apresentam propriedades físicas ou mecânicas adequadas e avaliar a sua estabilidade. O objetivo deste trabalho consistiu no estudo da estabilidade de emulsões, cujas variações entre elas foi a proporção de agente emulsificante álcool estearílico (mais) laurilsulfato de sódio (mais) estearilsulfato de sódio (LSX), a natureza da fase oleosa (decil oleato, ciclometicona ou dimeticona) e a presença ou ausência de pedra-pomes (5% m/m). Mantendo as amostras à mesma temperatura, realizaram-se o estudo da reologia, a análise de textura e observação microscópica das formulações com e sem pedra-pomes. Amostras foram, também, submetidas a estudo de estabilidade acelerada por centrifugação e a ensaio de estresse térmico. Através dos testes realizados, constatou-se que a quantidade de agente emulsificante influencia a consistência e as propriedades de textura, como a firmeza e a adesividade. As formulações contendo LSX (5% m/m) e decil oleato ou dimeticona como fase oleosa exibiram melhores caraterísticas como produtos para aplicação na pele, uma vez que estas formulações apresentaram menor firmeza e consistência e permaneceram estáveis com o tempo.

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