A 2 week field experiment was conducted to measure surface wave dissipation on a barrier reef at Kaneohe Bay, Oahu, Hawaii. Wave heights and velocities were measured at several locations on the fore reef and the reef flat, which were used to estimate rates of dissipation by wave breaking and bottom friction. Dissipation on the reef flat was found to be dominated by friction at rates that are significantly larger than those typically observed at sandy beach sites. This is attributed to the rough surface generated by the reef organisms, which makes the reef highly efficient at dissipating energy by bottom friction. Results were compared to a spectral wave friction model, which showed that the variation in frictional dissipation among the different frequency components could be described using a single hydraulic roughness length scale. Surveys of the bottom roughness conducted on the reef flat showed that this hydraulic roughness length was comparable to the physical roughness measured at this site. On the fore reef, dissipation was due to the combined effect of frictional dissipation and wave breaking. However, in this region the magnitude of dissipation by bottom friction was comparable to wave breaking, despite the existence of a well‐defined surf zone there. Under typical wave conditions the bulk of the total wave energy incident on Kaneohe Bay is dissipated by bottom friction, not wave breaking, as is often assumed for sandy beach sites and other coral reefs.

Funding informationFonds Québécois de la recherche sur la nature et les technologies; Québec Ministry of Public Security Coastlines along the St. Lawrence Estuary and Gulf, Eastern Canada, are under increasing risk of flooding due to sea level rise and sea ice shrinking. Efficient and validated regional-scale coastal flood mapping approaches that include storm surges and waves are hence required to better prepare for the increased hazard. This paper compares and validates two different flood mapping methods: numerical flood simulations using XBeach and bathtub mapping based on total water levels, forced with multihazard scenarios of compound wave and water level events. XBeach is validated with hydrodynamic measurements. Simulations of a historical storm event are performed and validated against observed flood data over ã 25 km long coastline using multiple fit metrics. XBeach and the bathtub method correctly predict flooded areas (66 and 78%, respectively), but the latter overpredicts the flood extent by 36%. XBeach is a slightly more robust flood mapping approach with a fit of 51% against 48% for the bathtub maps. Deeper floodwater by~0.5 m is expected with the bathtub approach, and more buildings are vulnerable to a 100-year flood level. For coastal management at regional-scale, despite similar flood extents with both flood mapping approaches, results suggest that numerical simulati on with XBeach outperforms bathtub flood mapping.

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