In textile design, the characteristics of a textured surface are the result of the properties of the materials, the textile techniques used, and the colour mixtures associated with each technique. The perception of colour on textured textiles is dependent on the angles of viewing and incidence of light on the surface. Accordingly, when analyzing the perception of the colour of pile textiles such as velvet, we observe that the orientation of the piles on the surface affects the perception of colour. The perception of colour and its transformation depends on whether the light is reflected off the side or the end of the yarn. By bringing do it yourself (DIY) materials into the textile design field, this research questions how biomaterials such as bioplastic can be further developed using textile surface design methods, and how the relationship between texture and colours can be advanced in the design of complex textured surfaces. The method develops a hybrid strategy for designing a new material category combining DIY and digital tools, which offers a more sustainable alternative to conventional textile materials. Moreover, the method proposed builds on two major aspects: explorations of bioplastic materials and their impacts on colour design and selection, and an analysis of changes in the visual perception of coloured surfaces with regard to differences in texture, the positioning of a light source, and angle of viewing. The results are methods of creating complex colour combinations and textural surfaces using near‐adjacent and complementary colours and the intrinsic transparency property of bioplastics.
This research explores clothing as interactive tools using dynamic print in relation to garment construction. The research was conducted with four series of garments, produced with leuco dye-based thermochromic inks, tested in an arranged photo session in a semi-public space. The first two series were constructed and printed to create patterns in a rather uncontrolled and random way. In the third and fourth series of garments, the relationship between both conventional print and dynamic print and garment construction were specifically designed to expose parts of the body commonly associated with nudity in traditional western societies. The research showed a possible increase by the wearer in the third and fourth series of garments due to the interactive exposure of the model's body; this was facilitated by the dynamic print in combination with the construction of the garment, which acted inwards, towards the wearer, as a result of its outward expression.
Bio-based textiles are an emerging area of cross-disciplinary research, involving material science and design and contributing to textile sustainability. An example of a bio-based textile is an orange-waste film, which is plant-based and biodegradable and possesses mechanical properties which are comparable to some commodity plastics. The research project presented in this article aimed to explore orange-waste film as a new material for textile and fashion design and highlights how experimental co-design processes and innovation involving orange waste film as a textile material adds a new layer of material understanding to both textile design and technology-driven material research. Material-development methods were used to develop the orange-waste film, as were textile design methods with a focus on surface design. The results show that material variables such as tensile strength and elongation are dependent on the grinding process and drying temperature used for the raw material, as these determined the quality and durability of the orange-waste film and its applicability to the field of textile design. The use of orange waste in the creation of textiles opens up for more ways of thinking about and working with materials, and orange waste could become a desirable raw material for textile design on the basis that it introduces certain aesthetic and functional possibilities through its visual and tactile expression and material behaviour, in addition to defining methods of producing textiles.
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