The developing field of bio-nanotechnology aims to advance colloidal research via the introduction of multifunctional nanoparticles to augment the dermal effectiveness of active substances. Self-emulsifying drug delivery systems (SEDDS)—isotropic mixtures of oils, surfactants, solvents and co-solvents or surfactants—are attracting interest in the cosmeceutical field. As part of this study, SEDDS systems containing vitamin C or vitamin E and curcumin were developed, whereby the bioavailability of the active compounds increased by enhancing their permeability to deeper layers of the skin. A composition consisting of 50% surfactin from Bacillus subtilis, 30% Transcutol and 20% oil phase was designed to encapsulate the active substances, i.e., vitamin C or vitamin E and curcumin, contained in the oil phase. The developed carriers were characterized by average particle sizes of 69–183 nm. The formulations with the vitamins were found to be physically and chemically stable for 6 months. Transdermal tests were carried out, showing that the carriers enable the transport of active substances deep into the skin, stopping at the dermis border. The formulations with vitamin C and vitamin E reduced the discoloration, the vascular lesions, and the depth of the wrinkles on the tested skin, which can be useful in cosmetics in the treatment of problem skin, including capillary and sensitive skin.
Surfactants are molecules that lower surface or interfacial tension, and thus they are broadly used as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents, or dispersants. However, for modern applications, substances that can perform more than one function are desired. In this study we evaluated antioxidant properties of two homological series of N-oxide surfactants: monocephalic 3-(alkanoylamino)propyldimethylamine-N-oxides and dicephalic N,N-bis[3 ,3′-(dimethylamino)propyl]alkylamide di-N-oxides. Their antiradical properties were tested against stable radicals using electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) and UV-vis spectroscopy. The experimental investigation was supported by theoretical density functional theory (DFT) and ab initio modeling of the X–H bonds dissociation enthalpies, ionization potentials, and Gibbs free energies for radical scavenging reactions. The evaluation was supplemented with a study of biological activity. We found that the mono- and di-N-oxides are capable of scavenging reactive radicals; however, the dicephalic surfactants are more efficient than their linear analogues.
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