The "insertion" (I) rather than "deletion" (D) variant of the human angiotensin-converting enzyme (ACE) gene is associated with both lower tissue ACE activity and elite performance at high altitude. We examined whether the onset of acute mountain sickness (AMS), and further performance on reaching the summit of Mt. Blanc are influenced by the ACE I/D polymorphism. Two hundred and eighty-four climbers (235 males, [37.0 (11.0 years], (86 DD, 142 ID, 56 II)) had assessment of their AMS status upon arrival to the Gouter hut (3,807 m) on day 1, and again on day 2 after an attempted ascent to the summit of Mt. Blanc (4,807 m). Success in reaching the summit was genotype dependent (87.7% of DD, 94.9% of ID and 100% of II individuals; P=0.048); I allele frequency for those reaching the summit was 0.47 compared to 0.21 for those who did not (P=0.01). The onset of AMS on day 1 appeared to be dependent on genotype (P=0.003), but with those heterozygous being less affected. ACE genotype was not associated either with AMS onset or severity on day 2. Thus, ACE I/D genotype is associated with successful high altitude ascent in this prospective study-an association not explicable by genotype-dependence of AMS onset or severity. Values are given as mean (SD) unless otherwise stated.

The results indicate that limited information can be gained on a subject's response to altitude by assessing physiological variables at sea level and a range of simulated altitudes before the subject carries out a trek at altitude.

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This study has shown that there is significantly higher CO production with a large-diameter pan compared with a small-diameter pan. These findings were evident by using a camping stove to heat water to boiling point when a maximum blue flame was present throughout. Thus, in enclosed environments it is recommended that small-diameter pans be used in an attempt to prevent high CO levels.

The aim of the study was to determine the factors affecting a climber's ability to ascend Mont Blanc using a number of variables collected at the Gouter Hut (3,817 m) before and after an attempted ascent on the Mont Blanc summit. Subjects (n=285) were tested at 3,817 m prior to their ascent of Mont Blanc. Maximum height ascended in the last 14 days was recorded. End tidal CO2, arterial oxygen saturation (SaO2), heart rate and respiratory rate were measured using a Capnograph (Nellcor Patrick NPB75). Acute mountain sickness (AMS) was assessed using the Lake Louise scoring system. Summit information is available for 216 subjects. None of the subjects who attained 4,000 m in the previous 14 days failed to reach the summit (P=0.04). Previous recent exposure to an altitude of 4,000 m resulted in faster ascent times to the summit than those who had not been above 3,000 m in the previous 14 days (4.02+/-0.6 vs. 4.46+/-0.8 h, P=0.009), higher SaO2 on arrival at the Gouter Hut on day 1 (88.6+/-5 vs. 86.3+/-6%, P=0.004) and lower AMS scores upon arrival at the Gouter Hut after the attempted ascent to the summit 2.5+/-1.8 versus 4.7+/-2.5 U (P=0.001), respectively. It is concluded that recent exposure to 4,000 m confers an advantage to those who wish to ascend a 4,800 m peak.