Ethanol (EtOH) is one of the bases in topically applied medicines that promote the skin permeation of drugs. Although the effects of EtOH have been attributed to structural modifications in the stratum corneum, the underlying mechanisms, especially the influence of different concentrations of EtOH, have not been examined extensively. Structural modifications in the stratum corneum of hairless mouse due to the application of EtOH/water mixture were herein investigated at the molecular level using synchrotron X-ray diffraction. The results revealed that all EtOH concentrations examined greatly modified the short lamellar structures containing the aqueous layer in intercellular lipids and the structure of keratin fibrils in corneocytes, which can take up hydrophilic compounds. However, the long lamellar and the hydrocarbon-chain packing structures were unaffected by EtOH. Changes to the short lamellar structures were not proportional to the concentration of EtOH. However, the keratin fibril structures changed gradually with increasing EtOH concentration. The X-ray diffraction experiments enabled the effects of different EtOH concentrations on the morphology of the stratum corneum to be assessed by using a number of experimental samples to avoid variations due to individual differences. The results indicated that alterations to the short lamellar structures appeared to be related to the skin permeability of drugs with the application of EtOH/water mixture, and monotonous structural changes in the keratin fibrils with an increase in EtOH concentration may contribute to this permeation as supplement. These results will be useful for the development of new drug formulations containing EtOH.

Generally, the blood and skin concentration profiles and steady-state skin concentration of topically applied or exposed chemicals can be calculated from the in vitro skin permeation profile. However, these calculation methods are particularly applicable to chemicals for which the main pathway is via the stratum corneum. If the contribution of hair follicles to the total skin permeation of chemicals can be obtained in detail, their blood and skin concentrations can be more precisely predicted. In the present study, the contribution of the hair follicle pathway to the skin permeation of topically applied or exposed chemicals was calculated from the difference between their permeability coefficients through skin with and without hair follicle plugging, using an in vitro skin permeation experiment. The obtained results reveal that the contribution of the hair follicle pathway can be predicted by using the chemicals’ lipophilicity. For hydrophilic chemicals (logarithm of n-octanol/water partition coefficient (log Ko/w) < 0), a greater reduction of permeation due to hair follicle plugging was observed than for lipophilic chemicals (log Ko/w ≥ 0). In addition, the ratio of this reduction was decreased with an increase in log Ko/w. This consideration of the hair follicle pathway would be helpful to investigate the efficacy and safety of chemicals after topical application or exposure to them because skin permeation and disposition should vary among skins in different body sites due to differences in the density of hair follicles.

The hf pathway must be important for the skin permeation of ionized compounds and hydrophilic high molecular compounds. hf-plugging is also a useful method for assessing the skin permeability of compounds through the hf pathway.