Humans have relied on sourdough starter microbial communities to make leavened bread for thousands of years, but only a small fraction of global sourdough biodiversity has been characterized. Working with a community-scientist network of bread bakers, we determined the microbial diversity of 500 sourdough starters from four continents. In sharp contrast with widespread assumptions, we found little evidence for biogeographic patterns in starter communities. Strong co-occurrence patterns observed in situ and recreated in vitro demonstrate that microbial interactions shape sourdough community structure. Variation in dough rise rates and aromas were largely explained by acetic acid bacteria, a mostly overlooked group of sourdough microbes. Our study reveals the extent of microbial diversity in an ancient fermented food across diverse cultural and geographic backgrounds.

Fermented foods provide novel ecological opportunities for natural populations of microbes to evolve through successive recolonization of resource-rich substrates. Comparative genomic data have reconstructed the evolutionary histories of microbes adapted to food environments, but experimental studies directly demonstrating the process of domestication are lacking for most fermented food microbes. Here, we show that during adaptation to cheese, phenotypic and metabolomic traits of wildPenicilliummolds rapidly change to produce domesticated phenotypes with properties similar to those of the industrial cultures used to make Camembert and other bloomy rind cheeses. Over a period of just a few weeks, populations of wildPenicilliumstrains serially passaged on cheese had reduced pigment, spore, and mycotoxin production. Domesticated strains also had a striking change in volatile metabolite production, shifting from production of earthy or musty volatile compounds (e.g., geosmin) to fatty and cheesy volatiles (e.g., 2-nonanone, 2-undecanone). RNA sequencing demonstrated a significant decrease in expression of 356 genes in domesticated strains, with an enrichment of many secondary metabolite production pathways in these downregulated genes. By manipulating the presence of neighboring microbial species and overall resource availability, we demonstrate that the limited competition and high nutrient availability of the cheese environment promote rapid trait evolution ofPenicilliummolds.IMPORTANCEIndustrial cultures of filamentous fungi are used to add unique aesthetics and flavors to cheeses and other microbial foods. How these microbes adapted to live in food environments is generally unknown as most microbial domestication is unintentional. Our work demonstrates that wild molds closely related to the starter culturePenicillium camembertican readily lose traits and quickly shift toward producing desirable aroma compounds. In addition to experimentally demonstrating a putative domestication pathway forP. camemberti, our work suggests that wildPenicilliumisolates could be rapidly domesticated to produce new flavors and aesthetics in fermented foods.

Production of sea salt begins with evaporation of sea water in shallow pools called salterns, and ends with the harvest and packing of salts. This process provides many opportunities for fungal contamination. This study aimed to determine whether finished salts contain viable fungi that have the potential to cause spoilage when sea salt is used as a food ingredient by isolating fungi on a medium that simulated salted food with a lowered water activity (0.95 a). The viable filamentous fungi from seven commercial salts were quantified and identified by DNA sequencing, and the fungal communities in different salts were compared. Every sea salt tested contained viable fungi, in concentrations ranging from 0.07 to 1.71 colony-forming units per gram of salt. In total, 85 fungi were isolated representing seven genera. One or more species of the most abundant genera, Aspergillus, Cladosporium, and Penicillium was found in every salt. Many species found in this study have been previously isolated from low water activity environments, including salterns and foods. We conclude that sea salts contain many fungi that have potential to cause food spoilage as well as some that may be mycotoxigenic.