The purpose of the present study was to estimate dimensional measure properties of T-shirts made up of Single Jersey and interlock fabrics through Artificial Neural Networks (ANN). To that end, 72 different types of t-shirts were manufactured under 2 different fabric groups, each was consisting of 2 groups: one with elastane and the other without. Each of these groups were manufactured from six different materials in three different densities through two different knitting techniques of single jersey and interlock. For estimation of dimensional changes in these T-shirts, models including feed-forward, back-propagated, the momentum learning rule and sigmoid transfer function were utilized. As a result of the present study, the ANN system was found to be successful in estimation of pattern measures of garments. The prediction of dimensional properties produced by the neural network model proved to be highly reliable (R2> 0.99).

In this study, shirting fabrics were woven with weft threads produced from blends of recycled cotton fibers, original cotton fibers and original polyester fibers (100% original cotton, 100% recycled cotton, 35%/65% polyester/recycled cotton, 35%/65% polyester/original cotton, 50%/50% polyester/recycled cotton, 50%/50% polyester/original cotton). The produced fabrics were investigated in terms of fabric defects by using fabric quality control machines after wet treatment procedures have been carried out. The types and numbers of defects detected during quality control were recorded and graded according to Graniteville 78 Fabric Inspection System and were classified accordingly. All fabrics were evaluated in terms of fabric quality.

The present study aimed to comparatively determine fabric spirality in single jersey knitted fabrics manufactured from different fibers and fiber blends under the same conditions as well as its effect on the efficiency of apparel manufacturing. To that end, the fabric spirality was studied for 18 different fabrics manufactured from nine different fiber blends (100% Organic Cotton, 100% Cotton, 100% Viscose, 100% Modal, 95% Viscose-5% PES, 50% Cotton-50% Viscose, 50% Modal-50% Organic Cotton, 70% Viscose-30% PES, 80% Viscose-20% PES) at 2 different knitting densities. In order to determine the effect of fabric spirality on the marker plan, a t-shirt model was selected and a total of 8 different fabric marker plans were prepared in 2 different assortments and at 3 different spirality rates. Finally fabric efficiency and the effect of spirality on unit fabric consumption were investigated for all fabric marker plans. In the end, the greatest spirality was observed for 100% viscose fabrics. It was also determined that as the fabric spirality increases (5%, 7% and 10%), CAD efficiency decreases by rates of 2.4%, 3.68% and 5.25%, respectively, in comparison with the marker plan for the fabric not exhibiting spirality.

Dimensional change problems experienced in textile products have always been an important subject and in the focus of attention. Today it is expected that dimensional changes in fabrics, the basic material of textile products, must range within certain limitations. Fabrics processed in the finishing divisions are wound or decatized in various forms according to the fabric structure and the demands of garment manufacturers. However, fabrics may be distorted in these storing processes, which results in undesired dimensional changes under the stress incurred. Nevertheless fabrics are required to be delivered to garment manufacturers at specific tension values. Indeed these values are not acquired as expected; consequently, it is known that they represent a core conflict subject between finishing plants and garment manufacturers. The present study investigated the structures of garment manufacturers and dimensional change problems they experience during fabric layout. The aim was to determine the severity of the problem in terms of the garment manufacturer and fabric types, which cause problems frequently, and to search for solutions to overcome this issue by means of a survey study. Solutions which would increase production efficiency and reduce processing time have been emphasized.

Bu çalışmada farklı iplik cinsleri ile üretilmiş süprem, lycralı süprem, interlok ve lycralı interlok kumaşlara uygulanan kuru relaksasyon işleminin, örme kumaşın yapısal özelliklerine etkisi incelenmiştir. Üretilen kumaşlar ile ilgili yapısal özellikler (sıra-çubuk sıklığı, ilmek iplik uzunluğu ve gramaj) iki ayrı durumda (örme makinesinden çıktığı ilk anda ve kuru relaksasyon işlemine tabi tutularak) ölçülmüş ve sonuçlar değerlendirilmiştir. Ölçüm sonuçlarından elde edilen değerler ile boyutsal parametreler hesaplanmış, hesaplanan değerlere SPPS istatistik programında tek yönlü varyans analizi (ANOVA) uygulanmıştır. Sonuç olarak, makineden çıkan ve sonrasında kuru relaksasyon işleminden geçen tüm kumaş çeşitlerinin "kc ve kw" parametrelerinde anlamlı farklılıklar olduğu görülmüştür. Lycra içermeyen tüm kumaşlardaki "kc ve kw" değerleri, lycra içeren kumaşlara göre anlamlı derecede daha düşüktür. EFFECT OF DRY-RELAXATION PROCESS ON STRUCTURAL PROPERTIES OF KNITTED FABRICSKeywords Abstract Row fabric, Dimensional change, Knitted fabric, Dry-relaxation.In the present study, effect of the dry relaxation operation applied on single jersey, single jersey/lycra (95/5), interlock and interlock/lycra (95/5) fabrics manufactured with various types of yarns in terms of structural characteristics of knitted fabric. Structural characteristics of manufactured fabrics (course and wale density, stitch length and fabric unit weight) were measured for two distinct situations (at the moment the fabric manufactured by the knitting machine and after the dry relaxation process) and results were evaluated. Values obtained measurement process and dimensional parameters were estimated; and these findings were analyzed through one-way variance analysis (ANOVA) in the SPSS statistical software. In conclusion, significant differences were determined with "kc" and "kw" parameters of all fabric types at the times of exiting from the machine and of dry relaxation process. "kc" and "kw" parameters of non-Lycra fabrics were determined significantly lower than the fabrics with lycra.