Previous animal studies have demonstrated that alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH) is a sebotropic hormone in rats and that targeted disruption of melanocortin 5 receptor (MC5-R) can down-regulate sebum output in mice. To study the role of proopiomelanocortin (POMC) peptides in the regulation of human sebaceous lipid production and sebocyte differentiation, we established a primary human sebocyte culture system. Sebocytes were derived from normal human facial skin. Differentiation of sebocytes, induced by POMC-derived peptides such as MSH, adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH), or bovine pituitary extract (BPE), resulted in the appearance of prominent cytoplasmic lipid droplets. Partial induction of sebocyte differentiation also was observed in serum-depleted cultures, but there was very limited spontaneous differentiation in serum-containing medium. Analysis by high-performance thin-layer chromatography (HPTLC) of (14)C-acetate-labeled lipids showed a dose-dependent increase in synthesis of sebaceous-specific lipid (i.e., squalene) induced by NDP alpha-MSH. Molecular studies using RT-PCR showed a low level of human MC5-R expression under serum-free condition but a substantial increase after treatment with NDP alpha-MSH or BPE. In contrast, MC1-R expression remained the same, independent of treatment. Our data indicate that expression of MC5-R correlates with sebocyte differentiation and suggest a regulatory role for MC5-R in human sebaceous lipid production.

The skin is under continual assault from a variety of damaging environmental factors such as ultraviolet irradiation and atmospheric pollutants, and as organisms age the cumulative damage exceeds the capacity of endogenous antioxidant defenses resulting in chronic inflammation and premature aging. Botanical extracts such as Feverfew containing naturally occurring antioxidants could replenish the depleted cutaneous stores and perhaps forestall these degenerative changes. A parthenolide-depleted extract of Feverfew (PD-Feverfew), which was free of sensitization potential, was found to possess free radical scavenging activity against a wide range of reactive oxygen species and with greater activity than Vitamin C. In vitro, PD-Feverfew restored cigarette smoke-mediated depletion of cellular thiols, attenuated the formation of UV-induced hydrogen peroxide and reduced pro-inflammatory cytokine release. In vivo, topical PD-Feverfew reduced UV-induced epidermal hyperplasia, DNA damage and apoptosis. In a clinical study PD-Feverfew treatment significantly reduced erythema versus placebo 24 h post-UV exposure. Through the ability to scavenge free radicals, preserve endogenous antioxidant levels, reduce DNA damage and induce DNA repair enzymes, which can help repair damaged DNA, parthenolide-depleted extract of Feverfew may protect skin from the numerous external aggressions encountered daily by the skin and reduce the damage to oxidatively challenged skin.