The factors affecting the applicability of contraction along a sewing line of a clothing portion were investigated by a model sewing experiment and by fastening a sleeve to the shoulder of a suit.At first, the test sewing to give a designated amount of shirring was carried out along a straight line on rectangular shaped sample cloths. Then the shape and the size of the crease formed on both sides of the sewing line were discussed in terms of clothing material parameters. It is considered that the creases formed are smaller when the contraction in the length along the sewing line is compen sated by structural changes of the fabrics such as the change of the thread contact in the texture.The fabrics having a loose structure, the length of which can be changed easily by applying a small force to any direction can be shirred leaving hardly visible, small creases on both sides of the sewing line. Materials having the loose fabric structure cause relaxation of shirring effect at the texture positions of the woven threads so that the transmission of the shirring effect terminates within a short distance, whereas two dimensional, solid materials such as aluminium foils or papers show a very small relaxation effect and leave longer creases.Taking into consideration the above results, the shape of the sleeves fastened to the shoulder of a suit was evaluated for various clothing materials.

The force required to thrust a hand sewing needle through fabrics for men's suites of various textures were measured employing the previously reported technique. The results were discussed in terms of the parameter of texture and of the physical properties measured by the method proposed by The Committee of Hand Evaluation. As the result, it was estimated that the force required for needle penetration was strongly affected by the volume fraction of fiber in the cloth and by the shear modulus. However, the other properties were estimated not to be essential to the force required for needle penetration. It was also ascertained that the force required for needle penetration was related to "Hari" and "Shari" of fabrics, but not to the other parameters estimated by KES hand evaluation. In addition, it was observed that, for the fabrics giving the smaller resistance to the needle, the better results were obtained in the shirring at the shoulder part of men's suites as well as in the evaluation of TAV, the total-appearance-value.

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