The shoreline of Malaysia is exposed to threats of coastal erosion and a rise of sea level. The National Coastal Erosion Study, 2015 reported that 15% of an 8840 km shoreline is currently eroding, where one-third of those falls under the critical and significant categories that require structural protection. The Study of Sea Level Rise in Malaysia, 2017 presented a sea-level increase of 0.67–0.74 mm on average yearly. This study reviewed selected coastal protection structures along the shoreline of Malaysia as an erosion control and sea-level rise adaptation based on coastal management strategies. Hard structures such as rock revetment and breakwater are commonly used as erosion protection systems in the “hold the line” strategy. Increased platform level of seawalls and earth bunds, considered as an “adaptation” approach, are effective in erosion protection and are adaptive to sea-level rise. Mangrove replanting is suitable as a “limited intervention” approach in minimizing the long-term impact of both threats. However, offshore breakwater, groyne, and geotextile tubes are solely for protection purposes and are not as effective for sea-level rise adaptation. As the sea level is continuously increasing, their function as coastal protection will also become less effective. In summary, this comprehensive review on coastal protection in Malaysia will benefit the related agencies on the future assessment.
Numerical cross-shore profile evolution models have been good at predicting beach erosion during storm conditions, but have difficulty in predicting the accretion of the beach during calm periods. This paper describes the progress made in modifying and applying the public domain XBeach code to the prediction and explanation of the observed behaviour of coarse-grained beaches in the laboratory and the field under accretive conditions. The paper outlines in details the changes made to the original code (version 12), including the introduction of a new morphological module based upon Soulsby's sediment transport equation for waves and currents, and the incorporation of Packwood's infiltration approach in the unsaturated area of the swash region. The competence of this modified model during calm conditions for describing the steepening of the profile, and the growth of the beach berm is demonstrated. Preliminary results on the behaviour of the beach subject to both waves and tides are presented. Good agreement is found between the model simulations and large-scale laboratory measurements, as well as field observations from a composite beach in the UK. The reasons for the model's capabilities are discussed.
Coarse-grained beaches are particularly prevalent in the UK, composed of accumulations of either gravel, or mixed sand and gravel sediments. Understanding and predicting their morphological behaviour in response to short-term and long-term forcing has been the subject of recent research. Despite the focus on sandy beaches, it is important to understand that the balance of processes that govern different behaviour between sandy and gravel beaches. In this study we show how a public domain numerical model, XBeach, developed for sandy environments (Roelvink et al., 2009) can be modified for use in predicting the cross-shore profile changes of gravel beaches. Improvements investigated here include: use of Lagrangian interpretation of velocity in place of Eulerian for driving sediment movement; incorporation of Packwood’s (1983) pragmatic model of infiltration in the unsaturated area of the swash region; introducing of new morphological module based upon Soulsby’s (1997) sediment transport equation for waves and currents. These changes are suggested in order to significantly improve the application of this model to gravel beaches, especially with regard to swash velocity asymmetry which is responsible for development of the steep accretionary phase steep berm above waterline. The results from the model agree well with the measured experimental data and improve upon the results presented by Pedrozo-Acuña et al. (2006).
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