No abstract

Glycation, and the resulting buildup of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), is recognized as a key driver of cumulative skin damage and skin aging. Dunaliella salina is a halophile microalga adapted to intense solar radiation through the production of carotenoids. We present a natural supercritical CO2 extract of Dunaliella salina rich in the colorless carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene. The extract exhibited antiglycation and anti-inflammatory activities in ex vivo testing, showing strongly reduced formation of N-ε-carboxy-methyl-lysine with exposure to methylglyoxal, reduced AGE receptor levels, and significantly reduced interleukins 6 and 8. In a placebo-controlled clinical study under intense solar exposure, the extract significantly reduced the skin’s glycation scores and its sensitivity to histamine; key skin aging parameters were also significantly improved vs. placebo, including wrinkle counts and spots. These results demonstrate the value of this Dunaliella salina extract, rich in colorless carotenoids, as an antiglycative, anti-inflammatory, and antiaging active ingredient, including in high-irradiation contexts.

Psychological stress exerts its effects mainly through the release of corticotropin releasing hormone (CRH), which activates inflammatory pathways in skin (inter alia), resulting in redness, extracellular matrix degradation, loss of skin elasticity and firmness, and the appearance of wrinkles—namely, accelerated skin aging. In order to propose a solution to this neurogenic aging phenomenon, we report here on studies using a myricitrin-rich extract of Cistus incanus, a Mediterranean shrub used in traditional medicine for the treatment of inflammatory and other diseases. These studies include a CRH receptor (CRH-R1) blocking assay; in vitro inflammatory cytokine reduction under CRH stimulation, and ex vivo NF-kB inhibition; and a double-blind clinical trial performed on highly stressed panelists, evaluating skin inflammation and wrinkling (active formulation vs. placebo control, applied split-face following a computer-generated randomization scheme; 36 subjects recruited and randomized, 30 analyzed; no adverse effects recorded; EMA/INFARMED registration #118505, internally funded). The results show that this extract can effectively block the CRH-R1 receptor, preventing NF-κB activation and the production of related pro-inflammatory cytokines. In a clinical setting, this same extract delivered significant anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects. Taken together, these results demonstrate the value of this extract as a cosmetic active to counter neurogenic inflammation and skin aging.