Human skin is exposed daily to environmental stressors, which cause acute damage and inflammation. Over time, this leads to morphological and visual appearance changes associated with premature ageing. Topical vitamin A derivatives such as retinol (ROL), retinyl palmitate (RPalm) and retinyl propionate (RP) have been used to reverse these changes and improve the appearance of skin. This study investigated a stoichiometric comparison of these retinoids using in vitro and ex vivo skin models. Skin biopsies were treated topically to compare skin penetration and metabolism. Treated keratinocytes were evaluated for transcriptomics profiling and hyaluronic acid (HA) synthesis and treated 3D epidermal skin equivalents were stained for epidermal thickness, Ki67 and filaggrin. A retinoic acid receptor‐alpha (RARα) reporter cell line was used to compare retinoid activation levels. Results from ex vivo skin found that RP and ROL have higher penetration levels compared with RPalm. RP is metabolized primarily into ROL in the viable epidermis and dermis whereas ROL is esterified into RPalm and metabolized into the inactive retinoid 14‐hydroxy‐4,14‐retro‐retinol (14‐HRR). RP treatment yielded higher RARα activation and HA synthesis levels than ROL whereas RPalm had a null effect. In keratinocytes, RP and ROL stimulated similar gene expression patterns and pathway theme profiles. In conclusion, RP and ROL show a similar response directionality whereas RPalm response was inconsistent. Additionally, RP has a consistently higher magnitude of response compared with ROL or RPalm.

ObjectivesRetinoids have been used for decades as efficacious topical agents to treat photoaged skin. The purpose of our present research is to evaluate whether the activity of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate (RP) can be enhanced by niacinamide (Nam) and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua (CS) fruit extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models.MethodsRetinyl propionate was tested alone and in combination with Nam and CS in an RARα reporter cell line for promoter activation and compared to trans‐retinoic acid (tRA) activation. These treatments were also tested in keratinocytes for gene expression profiling by qPCR using a panel of 40 retinoid responsive genes.ResultstRA or RP elicited RARα reporter activation in a dose‐dependent manner. The combination of 0.5 μM or 2 μM RP with 10 mM Nam had a 56% and 95% signal increase compared to RP, respectively. The addition of 1% CS to 0.5 μM or 2 μM RP with 10 mM Nam elicited a further increase of 114% and 156%, respectively, over RP and Nam combinations. All retinoids elicited an increase in expression of 40 retinoid sensitive genes over control levels. Of the 40 genes, 27 were enhanced by either 0.1 μM RP or 0.5 μM RP with 10 mM Nam and 1% CS. Nam or CS had very modest activity in both models.ConclusionThe combination of RP with Nam and CS showed a higher retinoid response than RP in two separate retinoid responsive in vitro models. We hypothesize Nam and CS enhances RP activity by modulating metabolism to tRA via increasing NAD+ pools and inhibiting reduction of retinal (RAL) back to retinol, respectively. The findings provide evidence that this combination may have enhanced efficacy for treating the appearance of photoaged skin.

The skin has evolved a system to prevent pathogenic microorganism colonization and infection. This study examined the role of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) and skin pH on Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) growth and colonization on the human stratum corneum (SC). Study Population and Methods:A survey study with 82 female participants was performed. Participants maintained their daily hygiene routine, except for refraining from using leave-on products on their forearms on the day of the test. Skin sampling was performed using adhesive tapes. An ex vivo method was developed to study the viability and growth of S. aureus on human SC sampled from normal skin. NMFs, including pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), urocanic acid (UCA), histidine, and proline in SC samples, were measured by liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry. The impact of PCA and UCA on S. aureus growth and metabolic activity was measured by optical density and isothermal microcalorimetry, respectively. Results: Heterogeneity of S. aureus viability on human SC samples was observed. Skin pH showed a significant negative association (p<0.05) with SC antibacterial activity in the ex vivo assay. One unit of skin pH decrease corresponded to 68.1% of S. aureus cell death. The levels of PCA and histidine were significantly negatively associated (p<0.05) with skin pH. The addition of 5 mM and 10 mM PCA significantly inhibited S. aureus growth by approximately 25% at 20 hours and reduced its metabolic activity in vitro. Conclusion:The results indicate that PCA, one of the NMFs in human skin, plays an important role in regulating the human skin acid mantle in vivo and contributes to antibacterial activity against S. aureus.

Human skin is exposed daily to environmental stressors, which cause acute damage and inflammation. Over time this leads to morphological and visual appearance changes associated with premature aging. Topical vitamin A derivatives such as retinol (ROL), retinyl palmitate (RPalm), and retinyl propionate (RP) have been used to reverse these changes and improve the appearance of skin. This study investigated a stoichiometric comparison of these retinoids using in vitro and ex vivo skin models. Skin biopsies were treated topically to compare skin penetration and metabolism. Treated keratinocytes were evaluated for transcriptomics profiling and hyaluronic acid (HA) synthesis and treated 3D epidermal skin equivalents were stained for epidermal thickness, Ki67, and filaggrin. A retinoic acid receptor-alpha (RARα) reporter cell line was used to compare retinoid activation levels. Results from ex vivo skin found that RP and ROL have higher penetration levels compared to RPalm. RP is metabolized primarily into ROL in the viable epidermis and dermis whereas ROL is esterified into RPalm and metabolized into the inactive retinoid 14-hydroxy-4,14-retro-retinol (14-HRR). RP treatment yielded higher RARα activation and HA synthesis levels than ROL whereas RPalm had a null effect. In keratinocytes, RP and ROL stimulated similar gene expression patterns and pathway theme profiles. In conclusion, RP and ROL show a similar response directionality whereas RPalm response was inconsistent. Additionally, RP has a consistently higher magnitude of response compared with ROL or RPalm.

OBJECTIVES: Retinoids have been used for decades as efficacious topical agents to treat photoaged skin. The purpose of our present research is to evaluate whether the activity of the Vitamin A ester retinyl propionate (RP) can be enhanced by niacinamide (Nam) and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua (CS) fruit extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models. METHODS: RP was tested alone and in combination with Nam and CS in an RARalpha reporter cell line for promoter activation and compared to trans-retinoic acid (tRA) activation. These treatments were also tested in keratinocytes for gene expression profiling by qPCR using a panel of 40 retinoid responsive genes. RESULTS: tRA or RP elicited RARalpha reporter activation in a dose dependent manner. The combination of 0.5 uM or 2 uM RP with 10 mM Nam had a 56% and 95% signal increase compared to RP, respectively. The addition of 1% CS to 0.5 uM or 2 uM RP with 10 mM Nam elicited a further increase of 114% and 156%, respectively, over RP and Nam combinations. All retinoids elicited an increase in expression of 40 retinoid sensitive genes over control levels. Of the 40 genes 27 were enhanced by either 0.5 uM RP or 2 uM RP with 10 mM Nam and 1% CS. Nam or CS had very modest activity in both models. CONCLUSION: The combination of RP with Nam and CS showed a higher retinoid response than RP in two separate retinoid responsive in vitro models. We hypothesize Nam and CS enhances RP activity by modulating metabolism to tRA via increasing NAD+ pools and inhibiting reduction of retinal (RAL) back to retinol, respectively. The findings provide evidence that this combination may have enhanced efficacy for treating the appearance of photoaged skin.