The object of research: ultrasonic processing technology of textile materials. Investigated problem: increasing the degree of splitting of complex hemp fibers due to the effect of the mechanism of ultrasonic cavitation on them. The main scientific results: The article shows the potential of textile production to ensure the environmental friendliness of textile products, and the development and implementation of new eco-technologies of physical and mechanical cottonization of hemp fiber is important in this. Analysis of existing methods of cottonization and structural features of hemp fibers has led to the conclusion that the destruction of cellulose satellites in complex fiber can be considered as a process of purification from impurities, since the technologies for purification of substances in the aquatic environment by ultrasound now are widely used. Therefore the process of cottonization of hemp by technology of ultrasonic treatment was used in this investigation for the first time. The basic principle effect on the textile material what placed in the liquid are the hydroacoustic effects formed by the collapse of cavitation bubbles in the contact zone "liquid-material". Experimental studies of the geometric characteristics of the obtained hemp cottonine were carried out, and the effectiveness of the effect of ultrasonic vibrations on the change of the structure of hemp fiber was confirmed. Due to the removal of inlaid substances under the action of cavitation, the complex fibers of hemp were split, as a result of which the range of variation and the absolute value of their length and linear density were decreased. The scope of practical use of the research results: textile enterprises of deep processing of bast raw materials into technical and household yarns. Innovation technological product: technology of ultrasonic cottonization of hemp fibers. The scope of using the innovation technological product: manufacturing of textile hemp products for general use.

Determine the principle of project methods' distribution for fabric design by technological means in order to group them. Methodology. The scientific methods of research are used such as general (analysis and synthesis), theoretical  (generalization  and  the  method  of  systematic  approach),  visual-analytical  and  the  method  of classification.

Designing the colour appearance of textiles requires taking into account their surface properties, hairiness among others. The villi protruding on the surface not only affect the quality of textile dyeing, but also largely determine its optical properties and the colour phenomenon. The analysis of studies of optical properties shows that the influence of hairiness on the phenomenon of colour is not well understood and that the amount of hairiness at which colour changes become significant for human perception remains indefinable. In this work, we studied the change in colour characteristics depending on the change in the hairiness of woollen fabrics, comparing “yarn – raw fabric”, “yarn – raised fabric”, “raw fabric – raised fabric”. Hairiness was estimated by the hairiness index, which was obtained from the analysis of sample microphotographs of yarn and fabric using software. The value of colour characteristics (lightness, chroma and colour difference) was measured in the CIELAB colour space (1976) using a spectrophotometer. The obtained experimental results showed that the changes in lightness and saturation of textile materials from the index of its hairiness are directly proportional. However, the value of changes is different for raw and napped fabrics, undyed and dyed samples, the initial colour hue and raw material composition also making certain adjustments. This study analysed the colour difference and established the level of variation in hairiness at which the colour mismatch between woollen fabrics becomes visually noticeable. The results of the study can be used to predict the colour and design the optical properties of fabrics for weaving and finishing.

Modern consumers attach increasing importance to tactile sensations and the general perception of the surface of fabrics, therefore, the study of the structure and properties of woven textures is an urgent task of textile production. In textile technologies, organoleptic research methods are used mainly, which give a subjective visual and tactile assessment of the surface of the tissues. Therefore, there was a need to develop an instrumental method for determining the texture of fabrics, which was implemented on the basis of the existing method for studying the texture of hard surfaces. It is based on the idea of creating a constant mode of illumination of the object of observation, which is a tissue sample. The proposed method is based on the use of a special optical device for determining the qualitative and quantitative characteristics of textures and is a viewing chamber containing a mechanism for changing the lighting mode and a mechanism for capturing tissue images. For an objective assessment of the state of the surface of the tissues, the invoice indicator is calculated − the invoice coefficient. The implementation of the developed method allows to increase the efficiency of the processes of design-design of fabrics, to predict the appearance of fabrics and to ensure compliance with the texture of the fabric of the model of the garment.

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