Concurrent observations of waves at the base of a southern California coastal cliff and seismic cliff motion were used to explore wave–cliff interaction and test proxies for wave forcing on coastal cliffs. Time series of waves and sand levels at the cliff base were extracted from pressure sensor observations programmatically and used to compute various wave impact metrics (e.g. significant cliff base wave height). Wave–cliff interaction was controlled by tide, incident waves, and beach sand levels, and varied from low tides with no wave–cliff impacts, to high tides with continuous wave–cliff interaction. Observed cliff base wave heights differed from standard Normal and Rayleigh distributions. Cliff base wave spectra levels were elevated at sea swell and infragravity frequencies. Coastal cliff top response to wave impacts was characterized using microseismic shaking in a frequency band (20–45 Hz) sensitive to wave breaking and cliff impacts. Response in the 20–45 Hz band was well correlated with wave–cliff impact metrics including cliff base significant wave height and hourly maximum water depth at the cliff base (r2 = 0.75). With site‐specific calibration relating wave impacts and shaking, and acceptable anthropogenic (traffic) noise levels, cliff top seismic observations are a viable proxy for cliff base wave conditions. The methods presented here are applicable to other coastal settings and can provide coastal managers with real time coastal conditions. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
The effective management of sedimentary coastlines demands a good understanding of the seasonal and inter-annual cycles in beach volumes, as well as the potential impact of extreme events. This paper uses a 10-year time series (2007-2017) of supra-and intertidal beach volume from exposed and cross-shore transport-dominated sites to examine the extent to which beach behaviour is coherent over a relatively large region (100-km stretch of coast) and predictably coupled to incident wave forcing. Over the study period, 10 beaches, exposed to similar wave/tide conditions, but having different sediment characteristics, beach lengths and degrees of embaymentisation, showed coherent and synchronous variations in sediment volumes, albeit at different magnitudes. The sequence of extreme storms of the 2013/14 winter, which represents the most erosive event over at least a decade along most of the Atlantic coast of Europe, is included in the data set, and three years after this winter, beach recovery is still ongoing for some of the beaches. Poststorm beach recovery was shown to be mainly controlled by poststorm winter wave conditions, while summer conditions consistently contributed to modest beach recovery. Skilful hindcasts of regional changes in beach volume were obtained using an equilibrium-type shoreline model (ShoreFor; Davidson et al., 2013), demonstrating that beach changes are coherently linked to changes in the offshore wave climate and are sensitive to the antecedent conditions. The ShoreFor model can successfully be applied to exposed coastal areas dominated by cross-shore sediment transport, and can also be used as a relatively simple and regional tool for the future management of beaches where coherence in coastal response is observed. Furthermore, a good correlation was found between the beach volume changes and the new climate index WEPA (West Europe Pressure Anomaly; Castelle et al., 2017b), which offers new perspectives for the role and the use of climatic variations proxies to forecast coastline evolution. response to annual variations in incident wave height and period
Beach response to consecutive extreme storms using LiDAR along the SW coast of England Burvingt, O
Objectives of this study are to evaluate the performance of different satellite-derived bathymetry (SDB) empirical models developed for multispectral satellite mission applications and to propose an uncertainty model based on inferential statistics. The study site is the Arcachon Bay inlet (France). A dataset composed of 450,837 echosounder data points and 89 Sentinel-2 A/B and Landsat-8 images acquired from 2013 to 2020, is generated to test and validate SDB and uncertainty models for various contrasting optical conditions. Results show that water column optical properties are characterized by a high spatio-temporal variability controlled by hydrodynamics and seasonal conditions. The best performance and highest robustness are found for the cluster-based approach using a green band log-linear regression model. A total of 80 satellite images can be exploited to calibrate SDB models, providing average values of root mean square error and maximum bathymetry of 0.53 m and 7.3 m, respectively. The uncertainty model, developed to extrapolate information beyond the calibration dataset, is based on a multi-scene approach. The sensitivity of the model to the optical variability not explained by the calibration dataset is demonstrated but represents a risk of error of less than 5%. Finally, the uncertainty model applied to a diachronic analysis definitively demonstrates the interest in SDB maps for a better understanding of morphodynamic evolutions of large-scale and complex coastal systems.
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