Skin is a target of allergic reactions to aromatic amine hair dye precursors, such as p-phenylenediamine (PPD). As conversion of PPD on or in the skin is expected to be required for the induction of allergic contact dermatitis, we analyzed the role of oxidation and N-acetylation as major transformation steps. PPD and its oxidative and N-acetylated derivatives were tested for their sensitizing potential in vitro using a dendritic cell (DC) activation assay and in vivo using the local lymph node assay (LLNA). PPD did not induce relevant DC activation but induced a positive LLNA response. In contrast, DC activation was obtained when PPD was chemically pre-oxidized or after air oxygen exposure. Under both conditions, the potent sensitizing PPD oxidation product Bandrowski's base was identified along with other di- and trimeric species, indicating that PPD oxidation products provide an effective immune stimulation (danger signal). In contrast mono- and diacetylated PPD did not induce DC activation or a positive LLNA response. We conclude that dermal N-acetylation of PPD competes with the formation of oxidized PPD whereas skin exposure conditions allowing auto-oxidation, as in the LLNA, provide an effective danger signal necessary to induce skin sensitization to PPD.

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Several human skin models employing primary cells and immortalized cell lines used as monocultures or combined to produce reconstituted 3D skin constructs have been developed. Furthermore, these models have been included in European genotoxicity and sensitization/irritation assay validation projects. In order to help interpret data, Cosmetics Europe (formerly COLIPA) facilitated research projects that measured a variety of defined phase I and II enzyme activities and created a complete proteomic profile of xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes (XMEs) in native human skin and compared them with data obtained from a number of in vitro models of human skin. Here, we have summarized our findings on the current knowledge of the metabolic capacity of native human skin and in vitro models and made an overall assessment of the metabolic capacity from gene expression, proteomic expression, and substrate metabolism data. The known low expression and function of phase I enzymes in native whole skin were reflected in the in vitro models. Some XMEs in whole skin were not detected in in vitro models and vice versa, and some major hepatic XMEs such as cytochrome P450-monooxygenases were absent or measured only at very low levels in the skin. Conversely, despite varying mRNA and protein levels of phase II enzymes, functional activity of glutathione S-transferases, N-acetyltransferase 1, and UDP-glucuronosyltransferases were all readily measurable in whole skin and in vitro skin models at activity levels similar to those measured in the liver. These projects have enabled a better understanding of the contribution of XMEs to toxicity endpoints.

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