[1] Results are presented from an experimental investigation of rough turbulent oscillatory boundary layers using a prototype wideband bistatic coherent Doppler profiler. The profiler operates in the 1.2 MHz to 2.3 MHz frequency band and uses software-defined radio technologies for digital control of the frequency content and shape of the transmit pulse and for digital complex demodulation of the received signals. Velocity profiles are obtained at sub-millimeter range resolution and 100 Hz profiling rates (each profile being an ensemble average of 10 pulse pairs). The measurements were carried out above beds of fixed sand or gravel particles, with median grain diameters of 0.37 mm and 3.9 mm, respectively, oscillating sinusoidally at a 10 s period through excursions of 0.75 m to 1.5 m. The resulting vertical profiles of horizontal velocity magnitude and phase, with the vertical axis scaled by ' = ku * m =w, are comparable to similarly scaled profiles obtained using laser Doppler anemometry by Sleath (1987) and Jensen (1988). A key objective of the comparisons between the previous experiments and those reported here was to establish how close to the bed reliable velocity measurements can be made with the sonar. This minimum distance above the bed is estimated to be 5 AE 1 mm, a value approaching the 3 to 4 mm limit set by the path of least time.Citation: Hay, A. E., L. Zedel, R. Cheel, and J. Dillon (2012), Observations of the vertical structure of turbulent oscillatory boundary layers above fixed roughness beds using a prototype wideband coherent Doppler profiler: 1. The oscillatory component of the flow,

No abstract

[1] Measurements of turbulence and shear stress in oscillatory boundary layers are reported from experiments carried out with a prototype wideband coherent Doppler profiler above fixed roughness beds of 0.37 mm diameter sand and 3.9 mm diameter gravel. The 10 s oscillation period and 0.75 m to 1.5 m oscillation excursions correspond to roughness Reynolds numbers for the gravel bed in the 290 to 490 range, assuring fully rough turbulent conditions. Bottom stress was estimated via the law-of-the-wall, the vertical integral of the defect acceleration, and the Reynolds stress. The Reynolds stress was obtained from the second moment of the beam-coordinate velocities. Bed friction factors, f w , from the defect stresses are in reasonable agreement with predictions based on Swart's empirical relation as modified by Nielsen (1992) and with values determined using Laser Doppler Anemometry (LDA) by Sleath (1987) via the defect method and by Jensen (1988) via the law-of-the-wall. The f w values determined here from the law-of-the-wall are higher than predicted (ca. 50% higher for the gravel bed), likely due to background vertical shear associated with residual motions in the tank. The Reynolds stresses are lower than the predictions by a factor of 3 to 4, compared to the factor of 5 to 10 obtained by Sleath (1987). Beam coordinate turbulent kinetic energy spectra indicate that the vertical momentum flux is mostly associated with fluctuations between the forcing frequency and the inertial subrange, the latter contributing typically less than 10% of the total observed Reynolds stress.Citation: Hay, A. E., L. Zedel, R. Cheel, and J. Dillon (2012), Observations of the vertical structure of turbulent oscillatory boundary layers above fixed roughness using a prototype wideband coherent Doppler profiler: 2. Turbulence and stress,

The spatial and temporal structure of flow, turbulence, and stress over equilibrium orbital-scale sand ripples are investigated at turbulence-resolving scales with a wide-band coherent Doppler profiler (MFDop) and an oscillating tray apparatus. The oscillation period and horizontal excursion were 10 s and 0.5 m. A single trial was also executed at 0.6 m excursion. Ripple wavelength and amplitude were 25 and 2.2 cm. Ensemble-averaged velocity profiles were acquired with 3 mm vertical resolution at 42 Hz. The spatial pattern of flow as a function of oscillation phase was determined by combining the phase-averaged velocity measurements from trials with the MFDop at different positions relative to a particular ripple crest. The MFDop measurements are used to investigate the coevolution of the lee vortex, turbulent kinetic energy, Reynolds stress, and turbulence production as a function of phase. Shear stress is determined from the vertically integrated vorticity equation and the double-averaged momentum equations. Friction factors obtained from the two methods are comparable and range from 0.1 to 0.2.

Abstract. The impact of particle shape on the angle of internal friction, and the resulting impact on beach sediment dynamics, is still poorly understood. In areas characterized by sediments of specific shape, particularly non-rounded particles, this can lead to large departures from the expected sediment dynamics. The steep slope (1 : 10) of the mixed sand-gravel beach at Advocate Harbour is stable in large-scale morphology over decades, despite a high tidal range of 10 m or more, and intense shore-break action during storms. The Advocate sand (d < 2 mm) was found to have an elliptic, plate-like shape (Corey Shape Index, CSI ≈ 0.2-0.6). High angles of internal friction of this material were determined using direct shear, ranging from φ ≈ 41 to 49 • , while the round to angular gravel was characterized as φ = 33 • . The addition of 25 % of the elliptic plate-like sand-sized material to the gravel led to an immediate increase in friction angle to φ = 38 • . Furthermore, re-organization of the particles occurred during shearing, characterized by a short phase of settling and compaction, followed by a pronounced strong dilatory behavior and an accompanying strong increase of resistance to shear and, thus, shear stress. Long-term shearing (24 h) using a ring shear apparatus led to destruction of the particles without re-compaction. Finally, submerged particle mobilization was simulated using a tilted tray submerged in a waterfilled tank. Despite a smooth tray surface, particle motion was not initiated until reaching tray tilt angles of 31 • and more, being ≥ 7 • steeper than for motion initiation of the gravel mixtures. In conclusion, geotechnical laboratory experiments quantified the important impact of the elliptic, plate-like shape of Advocate Beach sand on the angles of internal friction of both pure sand and sand-gravel mixtures. The resulting effect on initiation of particle motion was confirmed in tilting tray experiments. This makes it a vivid example of how particle shape can contribute to the stabilization of the beach face.