The previous study concerning laundry practices in Finland was published 16 years ago. Since that time, many pro‐environmental debates have been going on and sustainable actions have been implemented in many areas of individual lives and households. The purpose of this study is to investigate the textile laundering practices of Finnish consumers and their attitudes toward clothing care procedures. This study discusses how laundry habits could be developed into a more sustainable direction. The data for this research were gathered through an online enquiry that consisted of structured multiple‐choice questions. The data were obtained from 1,841 persons of whom 97.5% were women (n = 1,795). The data were analyzed by statistical means using the SPSS program. The data show that, despite media attention and debate about textile care procedures, there still are factors in laundering that burden the environment. From a sustainability point of view, some improvements exist when comparing to the situation 16 years ago, but washing machines still are seldom filled to their full capacity and consumers, being unaware of water hardness, administer excessive amounts of detergent. The current life situations of the household members seem to be major factors influencing laundry habits and sustainable actions. Especially, young people and families with children would benefit from information and instructions on laundry practices. Topics could contain knowledge about water hardness and proper dosing of detergent, filling the washing machine, washing temperatures, drying methods, and saving energy. Furthermore, general promotion of gender equality is important because household work and laundering is strikingly women‐performed work.

Bast fibres have been commonly used as a textile material in Northern Europe since Neolithic times. However, the process of identifying the different species has been problematic, and many important questions related to their cultural history are still unanswered. For example, a modified Herzog test and the presence of calcium oxalate crystals have both been used in identification. In order to generate more reliable results, further research and advancement in multi-methodological methods is required. This paper introduces a combination of methods which can be used to identify and distinguish flax (Linum usitatissimum), hemp (Cannabis sativa), and stinging nettle (Urtica dioica). The research material consisted of reference fibres and 25 fibre samples obtained from 12 textiles assumed to be made of nettle. The textiles were from the Finno-Ugric and Historical Collections of The National Museum of Finland. The fibre samples were studied by observing the surface characteristics and cross sections with transmitted light microscopy, and by using a modified Herzog test with polarized light, in order to identify the distinguishable features in their morphological structures. The study showed that five out of 25 samples were cotton, 16 nettle, one flax, and one hemp. Findings from two samples were inconsistent. The results show that it is possible to distinguish common north European bast fibres from each other by using a combination of microscopic methods. Furthermore, by utilizing these combined methods, new and more reliable information could be obtained from historical ethnographic textiles, which creates new vistas for the interpretation of their cultural history.

A new two-dimensional TLC technique was developed to separate substituted anthraquinones on silica plates using n-pentanol-pyridine-methanol (6:4:3, v/v/v) and toluene-ethyl acetate-ethanol-formic acid (10:8:1:2, v/v/v/v) as eluents. The good separation power of the new technique was demonstrated by applying it to the analysis of complex anthraquinone mixtures isolated from the Scandinavian Derm ocybe sanguinea. Emodin, physcion, endocrocin, dermolutein, dermorubin, 5-chlorodermorubin, emodin-1-β-D-glucopyranoside, dermocybin-1-β-D-glucopyranoside and dermocybin, and five new, earlier in D. sanguinea unidentified compounds, 7-chloroemodin, 5,7-dichloroemodin, 5,7-dichloroendocrocin, 4-hydroxyaustrocorticone and austrocorticone, were separated and identified on the basis of Rf values, UV/Vis spectra and mass spectra.

Pure natural anthraquinones, emodin and dermocybin, isolated from the fungus Dermocybe sanguinea, are for the first time used as disperse dyes for polyester and polyamide fabrics using a high-temperature dyeing method, accompanied with a reference dyeing with CI Disperse Red 60. The color of each dyed material is investigated in terms of the CIELAB L*, a*, and b* values, and color fastness to light, washing, and rubbing are tested according to the ISO standards. Emodin dyes polyester bright yellow and dermocybin bright reddish-orange, and the fabrics show excellent color-fastness results. Emodin and dermocybin successfully dye polyamide brownish-orange and wine-red, respectively, but the fastness results are only moderate. This study shows that pure natural anthraquinone compounds can produce bright hues and color-fastness properties equivalent to those of synthetic disperse dyes, and thus providing useful alternatives to the synthetics.

Secondary metabolites in fungi offer an interesting source of bio-based compounds that could be used as colorants in many applications. From a historical point of view, fungal natural dyes have been used more rarely than plant-based dyes. This paper investigates the potential of fungal colorants, using Cortinarius species as examples. In our research, fruiting bodies of the fungi Cortinarius sanguineus and Cortinarius semisanguineus were used as sources of anthraquinone dyestuffs. From 10 kg of fresh fruiting bodies, 60 g of anthraquinone powder was obtained, 6% of the dry weight content. The most abundant compounds were emodin, dermocybin and their glucosides, which formed over 90% of the total dyestuff amount. Pure emodin and dermocybin, as well as the crude water extract, were used for the dyeing and printing of natural and synthetic fibres. Conventional mordant techniques and high-temperature (HT) disperse dye techniques were applied, and light and washing fastness were tested according to International Organization for Standardization standards. Our experiments show that the yields of dye powders extracted from fungi are reasonable compared with the yields of, for example, madder (Rubia tinctorum). Natural anthraquinones produce strong and bright colours on several types of fibres. In particular, for HT disperse dyed polyester, the light and washing fastness properties were excellent. Anthraquinones are common in nature and there are many fungal species which produce them, so there are a variety of possibilities for growing fungi. The use of large-scale cultures is an interesting perspective for future biocolorant production.