The present study was designed to determine which types of specific tests provide an effective evaluation of strength and endurance in highly trained competitive sport climbers. The research process consisted of three basic components: the measurement of selected somatic characteristics of the climbers, the assessment of their physical conditioning, and a search for correlations between the anthropometric and “conditioning” variables on the one hand, and climber’s performance on the other. The sample of subjects consisted of 14 experienced volunteer climbers capable of handling 7a- 8a+/b on-sight rock climbing grades. The strongest correlations (Spearman’s rank) were found between climber’s competence and the relative results of the finger strength test (r = 0.7); much lower, but still statistically significant coefficients were found between the level of competence and the results of the muscle endurance tests (r = 0.53 – 0.57). Climbers aspiring to attain an elite level must have strong finger and forearm muscles, but most of all, they must be capable of releasing their potential during specific motor capability tests engaging these parts of the body. The forearm muscles of elite climbers must also be very resistant to fatigue. Since highly trained athletes vary only slightly in body mass, this variable does not have a major effect on their performance during strength and endurance tests.
For many years, mainly to simplify data analysis, scientists assumed that during a gait, the lower limbs moved symmetrically. However, even a cursory survey of the more recent literature reveals that the human walk is symmetrical only in some aspects. That is why the presence of asymmetry should be considered in all studies of locomotion. The gait data were collected using the 3D motion analysis system Vicon. The inclusion criteria allowed the researchers to analyze a very homogenous group, which consisted of 54 subjects (27 women and 27 men). Every selected participant moved at a similar velocity: approximately 1,55 m/s. The analysis included kinematic parameters defining spatio-temporal structure of locomotion, as well as angular changes of the main joints of the lower extremities (ankle, knee and hip) in the sagittal plane. The values of those variables were calculated separately for the left and for the right leg in women and men. This approach allowed us to determine the size of the differences, and was the basis for assessing gait asymmetry using a relative asymmetry index, which was constructed by the authors. Analysis of the results demonstrates no differences in the temporal and phasic variables of movements of the right and left lower limb. However, different profiles of angular changes in the sagittal plane were observed, measured bilaterally for the ankle joint.
The study aim was determining gender-related differences of underwater undulatory swimming (UUS) kinematic indicators and their impact on UUS velocity. Methods: The study included 18 girls (F: age 16.71 ± 0.64 years, FINA points 551 ± 68) and 23 boys (M: age 16.79 ± 0.57 years, FINA points 533 ± 66) training swimming. After marking characteristic anatomical points, subjects performed approximately 7 meters of UUS. A filming device placed behind the underwater window registered the trial. Recordings were analysed using the SkillSpector programme.
The purpose of this study was to investigate physiological responses to climbing with different hold types. Eight elite climbers (red-point achievements 8a-9a, French grades) performed two climbing tests to failure which were steady in pace and uniform in wall inclination, distances between holds and hold deepness. Only the hold contact surface inclination was different. Duration of test 1 (111 AE 54 s) was significantly (P ¼ 0.005) less than test 2 (255 AE 127 s), but peak and average oxygen uptake (_ VO 2), heart rate (HR) and post-climbing lactate concentrations were not different (P > 0.05). Nevertheless, hold type had a greater impact on peak compared to average _ VO 2 and HR. Peak _ VO 2 and HR in test 1 and 2 were 34.1 AE 4.8 versus 37 AE 2.1 ml/min/kg and 166 AE 16 versus 171 AE 13 bpm, respectively. Average _ VO 2 and HR were 28.2 AE 2.7 versus 29.2 AE 2.1 ml/min/kg and 154 AE 15 versus 156 AE 14 bpm. Duration of test 1 and percent lactate clearance were significantly correlated with red-point achievement (r ¼ 0.94, P ¼ 0.001 and r ¼ 0.75, P ¼ 0.033, respectively). Peak _ VO 2 was significantly correlated with duration of test 1 (r ¼ 0.80, P ¼ 0.017) and average _ VO 2 was significantly correlated with duration of test 2 (r ¼ 0.85, P ¼ 0.008). Different climbing hold types had no influence on either average or maximal _ VO 2 and HR or on post-climbing lactate. Therefore, these variables could be used for performance evaluation but not as intensity indicators during training for sport climbing.
scite is a Brooklyn-based organization that helps researchers better discover and understand research articles through Smart Citations–citations that display the context of the citation and describe whether the article provides supporting or contrasting evidence. scite is used by students and researchers from around the world and is funded in part by the National Science Foundation and the National Institute on Drug Abuse of the National Institutes of Health.