Aims Topical sunscreens are routinely applied to the skin by a large percentage of the population. This study assessed the extent of absorption of a number of common chemical sunscreen agents into and through human skin following application of commercially available products. Methods Sunscreen products were applied to excised human epidermis in Franz diffusion cells with the amount penetrating into and across the epidermis assessed by h.p.l.c. for 8 h following application. Results All sunscreen agents investigated penetrated into the skin (0.25 g m−2 or 14% of applied dose), but only benzophenone‐3 passed through the skin in significant amounts (0.08 g m−2 or 10% of the applied dose). With one exception, suncreen agents in corresponding products marketed for adults and children had similar skin penetration profiles. Conclusions Whilst limited absorption across the skin was observed for the majority of the sunscreens tested, benzophenone‐3 demonstrated sufficiently high penetration to warrant further investigation of its continued application.

The effect of adding thickening agents on the penetration of a sunscreen benzophenone-3 through epidermal and a high-density polyethylene membrane was studied using both very thick (infinite dose) and thin (in use) applications. Contradictory results were obtained. Thickening agents retard skin penetration, in a manner consistent with a diffusional resistance in the formulation, when applied as an infinite dose. In contrast, when applied as in thin (in use) doses, thickening agents promote penetration, most likely through greater stratum corneum diffusivity arising from an enhanced hydration by the thicker formulations. The two key implications from this work are (i) a recognition of the danger in the potential extrapolation of infinite dosing to in use situations, and (ii) to recognize that thicker formulations may sometimes enhance the penetration of other topical agents when applied "in use".

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This study provides an investigation of the availability of octyl salicylate (OS), a common sunscreen agent, from liquid paraffin and the effect of OS on skin permeability. A model membrane system to isolate the vehicle effect from membrane permeability has been developed. Partitioning of OS between liquid paraffin and aqueous receptor phases was conducted. Partition coefficients increased with increase in OS concentration. A range of OS concentrations in liquid paraffin was diffused across human epidermis and synthetic membranes into 4% bovine serum albumin in phosphate-buffered saline and 50% ethanol. Absorption profiles of OS obtained from silicone and low-density polyethylene (LDPE) membranes were similar to each other but higher than for the high-density polyethylene [HDPE (3 times)] membrane and human epidermis (15 times). The steady state fluxes and apparent permeability coefficients (Kp') obtained from the diffusion studies showed the same trends with all membranes, except for the HDPE membrane which showed greater increase in flux and Kp' at concentrations above 30%. IR spectra showed that several bands of OS were shifted with concentrations, and the molecular models further suggested that the main contribution to the self-association is from non-1,4 van der Waals interactions.